New to forums & have a new blaster
- Thread starter MrYuki
- Start date
Just take everything off, head, cylinder, flywheel, stator. take the screws out and may need a rubber mallet to get them to separate but they just come apart.
These videos don't show disassemble but show assembly. There are 5 parts total. They are made by Ken with Ken O'Connor racing. He is the go to man for any work.
These videos don't show disassemble but show assembly. There are 5 parts total. They are made by Ken with Ken O'Connor racing. He is the go to man for any work.
Get a Harbor freight harmonic balancer puller, comes with the correct length bolts to attach puller.
Basically holds left case half and pushes crank and right case away.
Even this caveman wouldn't beat engines apart.
Basically holds left case half and pushes crank and right case away.
Even this caveman wouldn't beat engines apart.
BTW, why are you splitting the cases?
Hope you cleaned the outside before you started gutting it !!
Hope you cleaned the outside before you started gutting it !!
I suggest no mallets or hammers at all.
use a 2/3 jaw harmonic balancer puller to push the crank out of the stator side case and seperate the cases.
there is threaded holes opposite each other under the stator that work for this.
you'll need long mm bolts if the balancer you buy doesn't include them.
I believe this one from harbor freight I have/use did come with the correct bolts
http://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-69889.html
use a 2/3 jaw harmonic balancer puller to push the crank out of the stator side case and seperate the cases.
there is threaded holes opposite each other under the stator that work for this.
you'll need long mm bolts if the balancer you buy doesn't include them.
I believe this one from harbor freight I have/use did come with the correct bolts
http://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-69889.html
This is the Vito big bore and this happened I'm not sure what caused it detonation maybe ? I'm worried metal got to the crank that's why is was wondering how to get the case apart. I'm use to working on cars this is my first quad. What are your thoughts on this ?
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Well I would say a complete tear down is in order. Split the cases, make sure the crank bearings are clean and replace if needed. Check the bottom rod bearing while your in there. Since your tearing the motor down, check the clutch as well, clutch kits are decent in price around $50 I think so wouldnt hurt to change those out as well.
To be honest, I would send your cylinder to Ken OConnor Racing to have it bored for the new piston. Cant begin to tell you how many hack job "machinists" have ruined bores and hones for members here just for them to have to buy ANOTHER piston and send it to ken to have it done correctly.
To be honest, I would send your cylinder to Ken OConnor Racing to have it bored for the new piston. Cant begin to tell you how many hack job "machinists" have ruined bores and hones for members here just for them to have to buy ANOTHER piston and send it to ken to have it done correctly.
Clutch is separated form the rest of the bottom end. It should not have been affected by this.
Why is everyone against the rubber mallet idea? We have done 2 bottom ends and both only required light taps around the outside for about 5 minutes. It wasn't like we wound up and hit it as hard as we can and I didn't hit it in one spot. Just worked our way around the outside with light taps. Wasn't hard to come off either time and never had any problems or leaks. One has been going on 10 years since we rebuilt the bottom and the other was over a year ago.
Exactly the same one I have. One minute and done CORRECTLY !! Can't beat it for $14.00 !! And yes, even has right size and length of bolts in the kit.
With a little bit of rigging even used it to pull the crank for assembly.
I wasnt saying the clutch was affected, just that for the cost of clutch kit it wouldn't hurt to toss it in while he had the motor apart.
Sorry, I didn't see the part where you suggested it since it's cheap and convenient. I thought he was asking cuz he thought it would be tore up.
Also didn't realize those pullers are just $14. I guess I'd suggest that method too
Since he is gonna be tearing into this and putting it back together he will have to eventually end up where I am with my new blaster.. aka Skeeter killer!
The oil seal was bad when I bought it.. so after reading all you guys post elsewhere on here I gave it a whirl. So I put the new oil seal in behind the crank clutch side. I fired her up and no smoke well normal healthy 2 stroke amount!! Buddy and I so proud naturally I wanted to test it out and before I made it around the block the seal blew again so my questions and admission of wingING it..
I use alot of grease behind the bearing?
Can't say the collar looked brand new!?
Might have put a little to much oil in?
And is there a break in procedure for a new seal???
The oil seal was bad when I bought it.. so after reading all you guys post elsewhere on here I gave it a whirl. So I put the new oil seal in behind the crank clutch side. I fired her up and no smoke well normal healthy 2 stroke amount!! Buddy and I so proud naturally I wanted to test it out and before I made it around the block the seal blew again so my questions and admission of wingING it..
I use alot of grease behind the bearing?
Can't say the collar looked brand new!?
Might have put a little to much oil in?
And is there a break in procedure for a new seal???
Best to start your own thread man, I almost responded to you thinking you were the OP. Helps us help you.
I appreciate it can you just tell me what's the best new seal replacement tips.. I hate being a newb.. I joined the site about 10 mins ago don't know how to start a thread..
Don't worry, even this caveman had trouble in the beginning
Go to forum, or sub-forum you want to post in. There will be a box that says "Post New Topic" (go figure)
.Click there, and fire away.
