New Guy Vito's +3 build questions

[Don VonBlaster]

Hello, been lurking for three weeks while I was blaster shopping. I wound up with more than one bike, lol.

Picked up a Vito's +3 crank for a good price and am putting together parts for a build. So I am looking for suggestions and answers to a few questions. Here is my general scheme so far:

1) Vito's +3 stroker
2) Namura 68mm high comp piston kit (.080 overbore)
3) Flotek ported head
4) Flotek lightened flywheel
5) Flotek piston boost port mod
6) Aftermarket pipe/silencer (have this already)
7) K&N filter (have this already)
8) 36mm flatslide mikuni (have this already)
9) Pro-Tec intake manifold (have this already)
10) Boost bottle (have this already in conjunction with manifold)

Any other suggestions? Is the flywheel a waste of time? How about the piston port? What reeds do I run?

My main question I need answered is does the head need additional clearance cut into it for the +3 crank? I would imagine that possibly the Namura high comp piston might require yet additional clearance on top of that? I don't want to run the spacer that came with the crank, and I understand port work is necessary to forgo the spacer, but what else am I missing?

My experience is with four stroke XS650 Yamaha's and we usually milled .030 off the head for a compression bump. I like compression!

 

[Herpderplol]

Suggestions....

Reeds only give you more throttle response, but if you want quality, get VF4's. the 3s wear out reeds faster so they are more expensive in the end

Throw away the "boost" bottle. No proven fact they help, other than help you get more airleaks! (seriously, pointless.)

Flywheel lightened will help with faster revving, worth it IMO.

I would go with wiseco, but no one has had problems with namura yet (only a couple have them)

The 3mm crank will come with a spacer plate to go under the jug, use it and you wont have any problems with the head or porting.

Have Ken O'Conner do the porting and head mod ( his website -> index )

Have someone give you a close range for jets with that set up

What are you running for pipe? (need to know more than "aftermarket")
Airbox lid on or off?

Buy a leak tester!

With all those mods, you may want to look into how the bike will ride. Shocks, widening, all that good (expensive...) stuff I:I

 

[Don VonBlaster]

Throw away the "boost" bottle. No proven fact they help, other than help you get more airleaks! (seriously, pointless.)

I kept the boost bottle hooked up because I didn't want to jimmy rig a plug for the hole in the pro-tec manifold just to get it running right. It required a new throttle cable to get going. The nice guy at pro-tec said some guys chuck the bottle, others guys keep it. It runs pretty strong right now so I'm inclined not to mess with it.

The 3mm crank will come with a spacer plate to go under the jug, use it and you wont have any problems with the head or porting.

I was under the assumption that you can do away with the spacer plate with good porting/head work?

Have Ken O'Conner do the porting and head mod

I already had my money set on Flotek. They seem to have an incredible track record, literally.

Have someone give you a close range for jets with that set up

I have a bunch of pilots and mains sitting around now so I should be able to get close pretty quick. I'm halfway decent with a roundslide/flatslide mikuni and getting it to work after messing with 36mm mikuni flats/rounds on XS Yamaha's for seven or eight years.

What are you running for pipe? (need to know more than "aftermarket")
Airbox lid on or off?

It's a nice pipe, it really barks, but I can't find a brand on there. Same with the silencer. Not sure you could really call it a silencer haha. I'll take a closer look in the next few days and maybe post a picture if I can't find anything. Airbox lid is off.

With all those mods, you may want to look into how the bike will ride. Shocks, widening, all that good (expensive...) stuff

Shocks are stock right now, set to third position. Rear likely needs replaced. I installed the Tusk spacers two days ago. Kind of thinking I should've never got into this hobby, it's getting pricey quick. Been selling my other toys to fund this. Ain't that how it always goes?

 

[dirtysquared]

This is an expensive hobby at times, but totally worth it to know you built your own bike. Take a pic of that pipe, someone will know what kind it is.

Welcome to the forum ! Great info here and friendly members make this a nice community.

Fred

 

[bansheedave]

Kind of thinking I should've never got into this hobby, it's getting pricey quick. Been selling my other toys to fund this. Ain't that how it always goes?

The real expensive part, which adds up even faster than building a stock blaster, is building a custom blaster from the ground up...lolI:I

 

[Wifesblaster]

The real expensive part, which adds up even faster than building a stock blaster, is building a custom blaster from the ground up...lolI:I

It is very expensive, but also very rewarding.

Your on the right track with your build. One of our bikes was ported by flotek. He will tell you to run the spacer plate with his porting. He does good work, but I prefer Ken Occonor. Here is why. Ken does GREAT work and you can call him on the phone. You will be emailing flotek and waiting for a response. I'm not in any way bashing flotek. I'm just giving you an honest opinion.

 

[bansheedave]

+ 1 on the rewarding part.

 

[Don VonBlaster]

The real expensive part, which adds up even faster than building a stock blaster, is building a custom blaster from the ground up...lol

It's not so bad really compared to building four stroke street bikes. For around $500 I can have a pretty nasty little motor here. It's the suspension that appears to be the killer. I got the bike for $800 and it already had aftermarket alloy wheels, aftermarket rear brake and stainless lines, flatslide carb, aftermarket pipe and silencer, etc so I feel like I have most of the external goodies I need so it's keeping the overall price down......except those elka shocks. Ouch.

I'm already having more fun with this than I ever did with motorcycles. I like to build and tinker almost as much as I like to ride so this is a blast!

 

[Wifesblaster]

Well some used front dual rate works just sold on eBay for 130 bucks. They were in good shape too. I would try to find some used ones.

 

[bansheedave]

I'm already having more fun with this than I ever did with motorcycles. I like to build and tinker almost as much as I like to ride so this is a blast!

Hence the name of the quad. "Blast-er"I:I

 

[DUALSTROKE]

A namura piston??? You are kidding right? Why take a new build and put a junk Chinese piston in it to save $40 or $50 dollars. A wiseco pro lite is what you want. I would answer some questions but I will let you ask your builder and wait a week for a response. Where abouts are you located and don't always listen to the whisperers in your ear. I'm out I'm going golfing.

 

[Jradd127]

On the handling end of your project, I've been looking at upgrading mine as well. What I've got from my research is that if you get +3+1 A-arms you can put 400ex, yfz450, or some other kind of shock on there pretty easily...same with the rear...a lot of people do this upgrade and these shocks handle much better as you could imagine, but you may need to do some custom work. A thread on here explains everything...if you want a cheap way to widen the front or rear you can also buy wheel spacers for like $30 on eBay. With your upgrades I would highly suggest it, I think the front end on stock blasters is way too short on wheelbase & I rolled mine already

 

[Awk08]

What I've got from my research is that if you get +3+1 A-arms you can put 400ex, yfz450, or some other kind of shock on there pretty easily

most aftermarket a-arm companies offer standard or long travel a-arms.
at least ASR does, they'll position the lower shock mount for any length shock you desire, but you have to order it from them like that.

you cannot (shouldn't) put longer shocks on any a-arms with a standard travel shock mount, you must have/get the long travel version a-arm to accept the longer shocks, for best results.
or still use the widening or lowering kits, even with A/M arms.

lowering blocks, second item down.......
http://www.cfmperformanceatv.com/blasterpropg.html

 

[Don VonBlaster]

A namura piston??? You are kidding right? Why take a new build and put a junk Chinese piston in it to save $40 or $50 dollars. A wiseco pro lite is what you want.

I thought they were Japanese? What's better, technically speaking, about a wiseco pro lite? Not trying to be a wiseguy but during my research it occurred to me there is as much snake oil out there as there are cold hard facts when it comes to atv/dirt bike engine parts. Hell, I was having second thoughts after reading some threads on the Vito's +3 crank and the opinions contained therein. Outside of the porting job, I am the builder. I'm in FL.

The Namura offered a raised head for additional compression, and it was cast. My game plan was to stick with a cast piston for this project, it has nothing to do with saving money. It seemed to fit what I was looking for. Gladly open to other suggestions, just that I see good and bad reviews for wiseco AND namura both. Who am I to believe?

 

[Wifesblaster]

Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Forged needs a longer warm up time then cast. Cast has been know to grenade when it goes. I has always used forged.

 

[Wifesblaster]

Also if you want a forged high compression piston you can get a Vito's super stock. In reality if you are getting your cylinder ported and head cut you won't need a high compression piston. If you are hell bent on a high comp piston be sure to tell your builder so he can allow for it.

 

[DUALSTROKE]

A cast piston needs less piston to cylinder wall clearance than a forged. A forged is stronger and a much better piston IMO. No snake oil just real facts.But what do I and the majority of this forum know. Here do some reading and decide for yourself. Cast pistons =paper weights.

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/cast-forged-55701/#post693809

 

[Blaaster]

Both pistons have their pros and cons, each to their own.

I have never used a forged piston, and never will.

 

[DUALSTROKE]

Both pistons have their pros and cons, each to their own.

I have never used a forged piston, and never will.

Fair enough. Some love them,a large majority of us will never run them.Ever wonder why la sleeve only offers forged pistons for their ct240bb cylinder? Or Vito's charges an extra $50 on their bb cylinder kits to upgrade to a forged?

 

[Wifesblaster]

EDIT! I meant to say I have never used a cast piston and have no interest in trying one. Forged pistons have always worked for me.