New FMF Powercore 2 silencer?? Jetting??

[TechBlaster]

Alright, after reading through this thread again I am gonna chime back in and point out a few things as I mentioned before.


Beginning with NEON's comment a little while back, Sorry bro, I am gonna disagree 2x fold on what ya said, by ALL means.

The DG and the FMF header have COMPLETELY different circuitry, although what you may have "peered" into looked similar it is NOT. On the dyno we will call it night and day. The DG is a chrome stock pipe, same restriction, baffles, circuitry, etc, really has no performance gains, NO need for up-jetting, etc, You are pretty much making more power with the stocker, for many Yamaha tested reasons that i have no interest in typing out.

As for the FMF setup, at least in FATTY flavor(the GOLD and the SST slightly different circuitry/motor effects) makes a very impressive gain/curve over a stock motor, concentrating on lows and mids, that is FACT. Any FMF full setup is a substantial upgrade over stock, well at least while we are talking stock to slightly modded motors.

As far as the lid removal, Excellent power gains throughout, not just "snappy lows", or "a little better mids", as mentioned. 2 strokes LIVE/STRIVE on fuel and air, give it more air(lid off) and more fuel(needed up-jet for lid off) and BAM, you have MORE power everywhere, by design, its just science. So, if you are not a ride through the watery mud up to the seat then lid off is a GREAT mod for anyone, but if ya like to ride dirty, and i mean dirty, leave your lid on, possibly just some vents up top through the lid, or an outerwearz cover at best. But, if ya can compensate for the lid off, you are gonna have gains everywhere, period.

Not to conflict with AWK's comment, but the FMF setup is actually jetted a little more conservatively, I would say a 270 is WAY too big, even with lid off, and the 300 in there is gonna drown it, Only say this as I had the same setup and have helped a few get there as well from my experience running an FMF, no lid mods, jets, 30mm carb mods, etc, etc. For example I just got our own BForum BlasterTrucker's blastee tuned for his FMF setup(Fatty/powercore 2) no AIRBOX lid mod, etc. I supplied him 2 mains, a #250 and a #260. He has a stock carb, and again the Full FMF setup, we dialed him with the #250, lid off, GREAT gains, and his bike is running MUCH better and more aggressive with the added air mod, hopefully he can chime in here to give some feedback from our test/tune, but he is good to go and again off of the #250 I supplied him. We are in PA, in the 500ft to 1000ft above sea level range, give or take, and that jetting is MONEY for his bike, tested!!!!

as 88 said, totally AGREE, Reeds again are another win win for sure, hence that fuel science thingy ma-bob I spoke of earlier. I:I Also agree with him on the UNI foam, and the FEE Bay grab as they have the best price, and UNI FOAM FTW, hands down!!

Now, on the pipe rehab, as I think ma boy blaster buddy??? said, YUP, agree, sand it down, few grits to get it smooth, then rattle can it up, I would not use the BBQ paint(a little boring finish in my opinion) but Auto Zone/Pep boys sells a nice sheen black exhaust/header paint, that will really create a nice black pop finish, which will look professional and, as ya said Sonia, go with your black accents, nerfs, etc, great idea.

So, grab your header from 88, sand/paint it up(fun project anyway and get it how YOU want it), get your silencer new as that is affordable, etc. As for the lid off YOUR call, you know how dirty, or clean, ya ride, no one else does, not even that BF of yours it seems, I say you wear the ridin' pants in the house, haha...

If ya don't go lid off, your jetting is gonna be somewhere in the 240-250 range for your MAIN jet, if ya do the lid off, call it a 250-260. Now, yeah, these #'s can range slightly depending on region, elevation, etc but not much for FMF setups. As you asked, your STOCK MAIN jet in your STOCK carb is a #230, and Jets R Us will be HAPPY to sell ya a handful of new ones, for your re-tune/project and after pipe install, etc, for say about $5 a piece, get a few so you have some to work with. I would get a #240, #250, #260 and biggest a #270, again depending on how high up ya are, lif off or on, blah blah... You need the hex head shorty MAIN jets for Mikuni, jetsrus staff will take it from there, they know their ISH, no doubt. Just tell um what ya got, etc.

So, decide what to do with the airbox lid, get your pipe from 88, get your paint project on, let us know if ya need help with ANYTHING(PM's are the best way to get me as the email alerts go to my phone, etc) and tell that BF to back off while you are wrenchin' I:I

Oh, and NEON, go swap in that FMF ya got "lyin' around" think you just might be in for a surprise over that DG mistake ya tuned for. (no hard feelings just trying to steer ya right)

Later Blaster peeps, hope this info helps out some...

 

[NEONNIGHT34609]

maybe i was not clear in the post i was talking silencers not headers and both the silencers are very similar. i did state that the headers where different but she started the thread talking about silencers and asking about DG silencers not headers. i did go though and say there headers where much different. might wanna re read my post before disagreeing 2x

Alright, after reading through this thread again I am gonna chime back in and point out a few things as I mentioned before.


Beginning with NEON's comment a little while back, Sorry bro, I am gonna disagree 2x fold on what ya said, by ALL means.

The DG and the FMF header have COMPLETELY different circuitry, although what you may have "peered" into looked similar it is NOT. On the dyno we will call it night and day. The DG is a chrome stock pipe, same restriction, baffles, circuitry, etc, really has no performance gains, NO need for up-jetting, etc, You are pretty much making more power with the stocker, for many Yamaha tested reasons that i have no interest in typing out.

As for the FMF setup, at least in FATTY flavor(the GOLD and the SST slightly different circuitry/motor effects) makes a very impressive gain/curve over a stock motor, concentrating on lows and mids, that is FACT. Any FMF full setup is a substantial upgrade over stock, well at least while we are talking stock to slightly modded motors.

As far as the lid removal, Excellent power gains throughout, not just "snappy lows", or "a little better mids", as mentioned. 2 strokes LIVE/STRIVE on fuel and air, give it more air(lid off) and more fuel(needed up-jet for lid off) and BAM, you have MORE power everywhere, by design, its just science. So, if you are not a ride through the watery mud up to the seat then lid off is a GREAT mod for anyone, but if ya like to ride dirty, and i mean dirty, leave your lid on, possibly just some vents up top through the lid, or an outerwearz cover at best. But, if ya can compensate for the lid off, you are gonna have gains everywhere, period.

Not to conflict with AWK's comment, but the FMF setup is actually jetted a little more conservatively, I would say a 270 is WAY too big, even with lid off, and the 300 in there is gonna drown it, Only say this as I had the same setup and have helped a few get there as well from my experience running an FMF, no lid mods, jets, 30mm carb mods, etc, etc. For example I just got our own BForum BlasterTrucker's blastee tuned for his FMF setup(Fatty/powercore 2) no AIRBOX lid mod, etc. I supplied him 2 mains, a #250 and a #260. He has a stock carb, and again the Full FMF setup, we dialed him with the #250, lid off, GREAT gains, and his bike is running MUCH better and more aggressive with the added air mod, hopefully he can chime in here to give some feedback from our test/tune, but he is good to go and again off of the #250 I supplied him. We are in PA, in the 500ft to 1000ft above sea level range, give or take, and that jetting is MONEY for his bike, tested!!!!

as 88 said, totally AGREE, Reeds again are another win win for sure, hence that fuel science thingy ma-bob I spoke of earlier. I:I Also agree with him on the UNI foam, and the FEE Bay grab as they have the best price, and UNI FOAM FTW, hands down!!

Now, on the pipe rehab, as I think ma boy blaster buddy??? said, YUP, agree, sand it down, few grits to get it smooth, then rattle can it up, I would not use the BBQ paint(a little boring finish in my opinion) but Auto Zone/Pep boys sells a nice sheen black exhaust/header paint, that will really create a nice black pop finish, which will look professional and, as ya said Sonia, go with your black accents, nerfs, etc, great idea.

So, grab your header from 88, sand/paint it up(fun project anyway and get it how YOU want it), get your silencer new as that is affordable, etc. As for the lid off YOUR call, you know how dirty, or clean, ya ride, no one else does, not even that BF of yours it seems, I say you wear the ridin' pants in the house, haha...

If ya don't go lid off, your jetting is gonna be somewhere in the 240-250 range for your MAIN jet, if ya do the lid off, call it a 250-260. Now, yeah, these #'s can range slightly depending on region, elevation, etc but not much for FMF setups. As you asked, your STOCK MAIN jet in your STOCK carb is a #230, and Jets R Us will be HAPPY to sell ya a handful of new ones, for your re-tune/project and after pipe install, etc, for say about $5 a piece, get a few so you have some to work with. I would get a #240, #250, #260 and biggest a #270, again depending on how high up ya are, lif off or on, blah blah... You need the hex head shorty MAIN jets for Mikuni, jetsrus staff will take it from there, they know their ISH, no doubt. Just tell um what ya got, etc.

So, decide what to do with the airbox lid, get your pipe from 88, get your paint project on, let us know if ya need help with ANYTHING(PM's are the best way to get me as the email alerts go to my phone, etc) and tell that BF to back off while you are wrenchin' I:I

Oh, and NEON, go swap in that FMF ya got "lyin' around" think you just might be in for a surprise over that DG mistake ya tuned for. (no hard feelings just trying to steer ya right)

Later Blaster peeps, hope this info helps out some...

 

[NEONNIGHT34609]

just to recap what i said. here is where i said the silencers where similar but the headers where a different ball game

she is taking silencer and to be honest. i have seen the inside of both the DG and the FMF there is little to no difference, but either will give you great sound over your stock silencer. now if she was taking head pipe then that would be a whole other ball game.

 

[cole454]

Do have to give TechBlaster props for typing that book though. lol

 

[TechBlaster]

just to recap what i said. here is where i said the silencers where similar but the headers where a different ball game

touche

Ma-bad blaster bro-seff, just making sure, by all means.
Thx for clearing that up, no doubt. On my defense, it was before say 0800 AM, LOL.

I feel alot better knowing you do NOT have a DG header your swearin' by.

 

[Sonia_69]

Ok so in silencers how necessary are spark arrestors, an what exactly is that? The park i ride at says recommended...... But it doesnt say required? The powercore 2 doesnt have one but the turbincore does.....

 

[GIXER7502006]

kudo's TechBlaster, wondering 1 thing would this post ben as well thought out and typed if this was a hummmm guy posting lmao I:I
I could be wrong but just a thought
and on the fmf jetting from what alot of people seem to be running including myself from what I read up on was a 280 main, maybe being a little on the rich side is a good thing, but I didnt do a plug chop to find exactly how it is burning

 

[Awk08]

i too have to disagree with my man tech also, most peeps using any fmf/lid off are running 270/280's, and i always suggest larger to save my ass from causing someone a meltdown and let them learn to do plug chops

heres some references, read thru them and see what most peeps are running................

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/what-jets-you-using-28981/

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/pipe-review-23423/

http://www.blasterforum.com/off-topic-7/jetting-numbers-solution-17259/

 

[Sonia_69]

Ok so in silencers how necessary are spark arrestors, an what exactly is that? The park i ride at says recommended...... But it doesnt say required? The powercore 2 doesnt have one but the turbincore does.....

Ok so I totally need to kno about this spark arrestor before I get the silencer!!!! Cant rejet my carb if I dont get a new silencer first lol

 

[Awk08]

the spark arrester is a small metal plate mounted about 1/2 inch in front of the exit tube of the silencer, where the exhaust exits, it is supposed to stop sparks from exiting the sliencer possibly creating a forest fire, and some organized riding parks who require one will stick a sick into the silencer to check to see if your silencer has one, if it hits the spark arrestor you get to ride

does a spark arrestor have anything to do with power or jetting, i dont think so, nor does the silencer itself, so the spark arrester cannot either

i once tore my stock silencer apart and cut off the spark arrester, after hearing it would give a power gain, did i notice any ....NOPE, it didnt even sound any different

so getting a silencer with or without a spark arrestor does not matter at all.
period

so get any silencer you want, they all fit most pipes except the fmf sst's < it will need an sst silencer

and the old lrd adjustables , they had their own stright tube silencer also

next question ??????

 

[Sonia_69]

Ok Awk thanks, I didnt think it didnt anything to enhance performance but I really wasnt sure what it did exactly, the where I ride says it recommended, says nothing about required, so I will prolly stick with the powercore 2 silencer, if I perhaps ever need to have a spark arrestor is there something I can get for my silencer that will work? Thanks for the help and explanations

 

[Awk08]

no after the fact fixes, it either has a spark arrestor, or it doesnt, and if you remove it, it's gone for good unless you weld it back in

but.....i have heard of guys pushing a piece of mesh fencing into it, so if they do check it with the stick, < it hits sumthin and they think you have a spark arrestor

 

[TechBlaster]

kudo's TechBlaster, wondering 1 thing would this post ben as well thought out and typed if this was a hummmm guy posting lmao I:I
I could be wrong but just a thought
and on the fmf jetting from what alot of people seem to be running including myself from what I read up on was a 280 main, maybe being a little on the rich side is a good thing, but I didnt do a plug chop to find exactly how it is burning

LOL
My posts are what they are, when I got something to say I write it out in detail, no matter what the thread starter is packin' I:I

As far as this jetting goes, again the ONLY reason I speak of this is from experience, hands on, multiple bike tuning/plug choppin' experience. I have tuned over 6 random blasters with the common FMF setup and all have fallen pretty close to one another.

When I bought my bike, the kid who sold it to me had it totally stock except for an FMF fatty and powercore 2, that's it. I rocked it like that for about a year before I started digging into it. When I did, I found a stock #230 main in the carb, I thought fugg!!! How did I not blow this thing up? Or how did he not blow it up before selling it to me???

After some investigation, tune time, plug chops(3 with new plugs) found it to be fine, hmmmm?????

SO I called FMF, and talked to a tech. Chatted about the blaster, my region, etc, they said a #240 is recommended, I told them I had a #230 in and they were not surprised. So, once I got into the lid off, UNI filter, etc, started my plug chops, and all that jazz. Started with a #290, would not run without puking. #280, same, #270, ran fine, thought I was good, chop was rich. Made it down to a #250, PERFECT chops, ran it like that for another year, lean, fast and fun. Then, tore it down again for the toomey, carb bore, blah blah, now have a #310 main and STILL on the same ol 128+ psi stock bore, amazing, it just will not give up.

So, took that experience to the friends, etc that run the FMF setup. Ironically 2 other peeps I tore into had the stocker #230 main in their VM26 carb, with the full FMF setup. I pulled both of their lids, one bike chopped at a #250, the other a #260, hmmmmm...

Now, last week, our BlasterTrucker from here, same thing, full FMF setup, pulled his main and guess what, he has been running it for 2 years on a, yup, stock #230. We pulled his lid, he runs a twin air foam, I supplied him a #250 and a #260, and he dialed in on the #250, 1 3/4 turns out on pilot screw, perfect tune, all day.

See a pattern here? As said experience, not guess-timate, not shat talkin, just good ol line of sight proof. Yeah, you CAN run your FMF setup on a #270 or #280, but its kinda like the ghetto kids these days, yeah they got pants on but come on.

I am a tuner, always have been, all my mx race bikes, my dozen RC gas cars, a ton of high performance circuit racer wave runners, etc, love to tune and 2 strokes run better lean, FACT. There is a danger zone but if ya stay outta it you are money.

So, I agree with you guys in the sense that the FMF setup will "run", call it over safe, on a #270 or #280, but if ya take a minute to actually check your chop/tune your way rich a$$, and can get a ton more power outta the tune, trust me, again tested Mutha Fugga'z!!!!!

Most other pipes are much different but the FMF on a mostly stock bike I have TONS of tuning time with, just by coincidence, and fatter = slower, all day. I truly believe most of this is due to the ever so primitive VM26 Mikuni these come with, its restrictive and small venturi, etc, it just doesnt need the extra fuel with the mellow FMF circuitry.
Now, Safe is safe but slow is slow, there is a nice, stable semi fine line between that is a nice place to be, if ya can find it.

*******One other small thing to add, lets talk about the TOOMEY B1 for a sec. If ya check, TOOMEY ships their kit with a #330 MAIN, and that is with their kit, which includes vents to be cut into the box and lid, a UNI foam, etc. #330 main is the "plug and play" recommedned for most regions to run the TOOMEY full kit. I have the lid OFF, no air box vent bull crap, and dropped down/dialed in at a #310 main, and my stock VM26 is even bored/rifled 30mm with the added divider plate, see what I am talkin about? Jetting specs are always conservative as they do not wanna be held accountable when ya blow the fuggin piston skirt clear off Yo ish, cause ya wanna go faster. BUT, I promise you, and as I have beat the living piss out of my bike for a year straight, AWK mountain romps, draggin', blah blah it's not breakin', my tune is fuggin money, my chops are sexy as hell, just fact, and tuned to perfection. So, ya know what I have to say to TOOMEY and their airbox plug kit??? Fugg you, mine is faster than yours, period. I am running leaner, and faster, than TOOMEY quotes their specs at, and it is safe, very, as again remember my bore is still stock and my piston wash is perfect, no carbon, no fouled plugs, nothing, runs 100% ALL the time.

Every bike is different, every bike will tune different, and every tuner has thier own beliefs and ways/skills to get the job done, how fast ya wanna go?? What is YOUR safe zone?? I know mine...

Love all ya fuggin blaster peeps, U No Dis...
Just sharing MY facts, my tests, my results, MY experience.

Out peace biotches... I:I