Need your input! Shooting a vid....

jlsparky7

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Mar 26, 2007
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Im going to be shooting a vid on troubleshooting a no start or hard start situation for the blaster/banshee. Heres what I have come up with so far. Please feel free to add anything you think I should include. More then likely I will make this a step by step process and I will show each step.

Spark- If you check for spark with the spark plug outside of the quad and there is spark that doesnt mean there is spark inside the engine with 120lbs of pressure. Replace the plug and check your plug gap. I did a vid of that on my banshee topend vid. Check it out. Check your engine ground. Specifically the one that mounts right next to the coil. If the grounds are good then the problem is your CDI box or Stator. Assuming all of your wiring is intact.

Timing- If you sheered a flywheel key (woodruff key) then you will still have spark it will just not be at the right time. The spark will ignite when the piston isnt in position yet. To check the flywheel key (which is the part that controls timing) you need to pull off the flywheel side cover and pull the flywheel with a flywheel puller (they are 20 bucks online and are reverse threaded)

Compression- For proper compression you also need intact reed valves. They are located in between the carb and the engine behind the rubber boots the carb slides into. Also part of compression is back pressure. If you have any major exhaust leaks that could also cause a no start or hard to start type scenario. Obviously you need to test the compression at the topend which is done with a compression tester.

Fuel- FRESH FRESH FRESH. Always use fresh fuel. Meaning you went to the gas station and bought fresh fuel (even some gas station fuel is not fresh). Not use the "fresh fuel" from the jug thats been sitting in the garage for a year. Make sure your fuel/oil mix ratio is correct. (I use 40:1 and have no problems with amsoil interceptor). Also make sure the carb is clean and float is adjusted properly. Also what size jets are you running? What airbox mods if any? What air filter? Is your pilot air screw set properly?

Air- Clean air filter! You need a clean air filter in order for your machine to function properly. You wouldnt run a mile while breathing through a straw so why force your machine to? Also make sure the inside of the airbox and carbs are clean and that your air filter is mounted properly and seals all dirt out.
 
btw....nice vid collection you got goin on, i'm suscribed !!!!!!
 
i'd like to see testing of the stator coils added, with specific wire colors and ohm specs, metering the coil and plug wire and testing the orange wire for voltage ????

maybe this would be better as a seperate "electrical testing" vid ????
then a different one on leakdowns, compression and fuel flow

heres a "how to" i copied from someone (brandoz ???) and just paste it when the question arises, it's also in the manual....................

Electrical problems suck. Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 or less at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
 
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i'd like to see testing of the stator coils added, with specific wire colors and ohm specs, metering the coil and plug wire and testing the orange wire for voltage ????

maybe this would be better as a seperate "electrical testing" vid ????
then a different one on leakdowns, compression and fuel flow

heres a "how to" i copied from someone (brandoz ???) and just paste it when the question arises, it's also in the manual....................

Electrical problems suck. Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 or less at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.

Love the suggestion and that is the exact layout I plan on doing. Im going to shoot the vid listing the possible causes then put up a link for that cause. So in the troubleshooting vid ill put a link up for carb cleaning, testing electrical, checking flywheel, checking/cleaning air filter, ect....

Heres the problem... I have almost ZERO experience with the electrical side of things. I understand how electricity flows and everything like that but have NO idea how to use a tester or what to put the settings on the tester at. Ill do some reading and see if I can get a tester for the electrical side of things. In the past if I found it to be an electrical problem I would just replace the electrical components cheapest to most expensive, check grounds, replace spark plug, replace coil, ect....

Awesome suggestion! Ill give rep if i can.
 
currently i have a small "el cheapo" tester from harbor freight, my trunk leaked and ruined the lcd on my fluke
but for testing ohms and continuity, look in the manual to see what the expected ohms of the coils are, and set the "range" of the tester to the next highest ohm setting, if too low of a setting ....an incorrect reading will result
i find a digital to be easier to use, as the dial type have different ranges on the dail, be sure to read the correct one that corresponds to what setting you have it on


aaahhhhhaaaaaa heres a thought.............
i bet theres youtube vids explaining how to use a muti-meter, hahahahahaaaaaaa