okay guys, I have a Yamaha blaster I just got , it will start and run for anywere from 5-30seconds maybe a minute.. when it dies, its almost like I'm turning the ignition off. it wont really rev or anything when it does run.. ive cleaned the carb a dozen times, brand new jets (260 main, 32.5 pilot), tors is deleted. Brand new reeds, and the motor is good, I just replaced all top end gaskets, and the piston and crank are all in beautiful condition. Exhaust is clean, air filters new, float heights set, it gets fuel, gets good spark, has plenty of compression, but continues to run like this... this thing has me totally stumped. any help is appreciated
need help, quad wont run!
- Thread starter yamaha_racer37
- Start date
Sounds like a bad stator or coil . Too much oil on air filter ? Flywheel key could be sheared off also . Get the manual and check the resistance on both .Don't buy the crap ebay stators if that's the problem .
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what year is it?
you have checked compression with a gauge?
could very well be the stator or key if everything
above is correct
free manual
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/
you have checked compression with a gauge?
could very well be the stator or key if everything
above is correct
free manual
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/
Its a 1996, very good condition. Haven't checked with a gauge, but has great comoression, that's what my leg thinks anyways.
i would gauge comp test it.You can buy 1 for 30 bucks at auto parts store/or rent 1 maybe for free.
should be around 120psi if it is lower then 120psi then it is not as perfect as you think lol
see if there is any chinese top end cylinder kits that dont work.....
chinese 30 dollar stators that dont work installed on it..... ect.
why did you replace head and base gasket on it?
Was it to inspect the top end?
96 tors delete is just unplugging the brain under front nose/headlight.
the rest is tidying up the wires.
if it starts and wont rev up then???
compression/electrical/carb/free flowing gas from tank to carb.
new ngk b8es spark plug
clean ground wires
alot of these problems you are explaning lead to,
stator
low compression
whacked out carb
bad electrical grounds
reeds not sitting flush
chinese parts installed by previous owner..
more info on what has been replace or ruled out as a issue will help us help you
right know as it stands you don't have a compression test reading/photo's or proof
should be around 120psi if it is lower then 120psi then it is not as perfect as you think lol
see if there is any chinese top end cylinder kits that dont work.....
chinese 30 dollar stators that dont work installed on it..... ect.
why did you replace head and base gasket on it?
Was it to inspect the top end?
96 tors delete is just unplugging the brain under front nose/headlight.
the rest is tidying up the wires.
if it starts and wont rev up then???
compression/electrical/carb/free flowing gas from tank to carb.
new ngk b8es spark plug
clean ground wires
alot of these problems you are explaning lead to,
stator
low compression
whacked out carb
bad electrical grounds
reeds not sitting flush
chinese parts installed by previous owner..
more info on what has been replace or ruled out as a issue will help us help you
right know as it stands you don't have a compression test reading/photo's or proof
I'll throw a dart and see where it lands. Delete your parking brake. A lot of times, it'll get stuck on even when the lever isn't locked. If it's stuck on the bike won't rev passed 1/8th throttle.
On the back Of the bike find the CDI by the brake light under the seat. You'll see a set of wires. Cut the GREEN and YELLOW wire as close to the plug as possible. Wrap it with electrical tape to keep it from connecting or shorting out.
On the back Of the bike find the CDI by the brake light under the seat. You'll see a set of wires. Cut the GREEN and YELLOW wire as close to the plug as possible. Wrap it with electrical tape to keep it from connecting or shorting out.
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I've already deleted the parking brake.
As for cheap Chinese parts, carb, stator and top end all look original except for the piston and rings, appeared to be wiesco. All grounds are good, and yes I only redid top end gaskets to be sure that top end and crank are good, witch appear to be good.. I'll have to get a compression tester, and test the comp.
As for cheap Chinese parts, carb, stator and top end all look original except for the piston and rings, appeared to be wiesco. All grounds are good, and yes I only redid top end gaskets to be sure that top end and crank are good, witch appear to be good.. I'll have to get a compression tester, and test the comp.
That's some very good info, where is the actual switch located that the pb trips to cause the cdi unit not to rev passed 1/8 throttle located?
/\ it is part of the stock clutch lever/perch on handlebars.
if it is not a stock perch/lever then you dont have it lol
un plug wire at BOTH ENDS.
if it is not a stock perch/lever then you dont have it lol
un plug wire at BOTH ENDS.
