my blaster stalled and now won't start

So back to some previous questions...

Did you do any break in proceedures or did you just "Fang" it?

It is possible that the compression is low if the proper heat cycles were not performed prior to riding.

If you are able to do so, re tension the head bolts as per manual,

Jug = 25Nm 18 ft lb
Head = 27 Nm 20 ft lb
Plug = 25 Nm 18 ft lb


If you dont have a tester it looks like you may have to visit the shop!
 
i asume the shop did a break in and heat cycles because on on my bill they had $5 worth of fuel on it, all they said about it was that it would smoke more than usall because they put oil in the gas for the first tank. they said it was only for the first tank. what i think it worng is the spark plug is bad or dirt in the carb beacuse its been sitting for 6 months. when i took it to the shop today they said they would take a look.
 
monsterman426 said:
stalled like it was out of gas, but it hs over half a take and b4 u ask i checked the fuel valve and it is letting fuel out. i know the difference between stalled and siezed. i had a kawasaki kx 125 that siezed
Click to expand...

hahahah only kawasucky owners know what a real siezed motor sounds like, i got kawai buddies but they only seem to come out half the time us other boys go riding. :D mazel own a Suzuki ;)
 
If the shop put oil in the gas tank they should have a smack on the wrist, if not a kick up the date. What are these drongo's thinking of, adding oil to the fuel on a stock setup.

Other than fouling the plug, they have effectivily obtained a lean condition which should be corrected by changing the jetting.

Just think about it, add oil, less fuel, therefore a weak fuel mixture, which is definatly not recommended for break in, let alone riding.

Far better to err on the rich side.

You have been running an oil rich , fuel lean mixture.
I hope the lean mixture has not done too much damage.

Running a lean mixture can cause the piston crown to overheat and fry.

Not all siezes in motors are abrupt, you know stop dead.

There is such a thing as a slow sieze on a freshly built motor, and your symptoms point to it.

The motor gets overheated and starts to tighten up. Due to the large amount of oil trapped in the fresh crosshatching, there is enough lubrication to allow the piston to reciprocate, but slow down and stop as in a stall.

After a while the motor will kick over, but now not start due to lack of compression usually caused by stuck or poorly seating rings.

I hope I explained it well enough.
 
Last edited:
Triplecrown421 said:
sound fishy why the bike just stalled and wouldnt start back up. this happend too me before and after a leak test came back good i relised that one of the power reeds had cracked and it was as easy as replacing that. if the bike has the same compressen as when u got it from the shop then screw the compression tester as bad as that sounds youll pay 30-80 bucks for it and use it this once ? just to have it tell ya your maybe 10 pounds off. by the sounds of it the shop is what mantaines your bike. i had mine worn out at like 55 psi in the cylinder before and she'd start better then any 400ex or anything else just had to burn er hard to get power . when u find the problem let us know im curious
Click to expand...

the problem was the CDI box, i knew it was somthing dumb and it turns out that a licenced dealership knows what there doing, imagine that
 
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