Hi my 1996 Yamaha blaster does not run good at all. It starts first or second kick, and I usually mess with the idle screw to get it idling. I can rev it up good in neutral sometimes. When I try driving it, it bogs really bad. I just rebuilt it. It's stock bore stock jets and stock pipe. I tried running it with out the air box cover and it does nothing to it. What is wrong with my blaster?
My blaster runs super bad
- Thread starter wheelierider3
- Start date
Could be lots of things, but we are here to thin those "things" out. So first off Has it been leak tested?
If not,
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-perform-a-leak-down-test.44653/
As it says in the thread awk08 is the man for leak testers, you can also build your own.
Blasters are notorious for leaking through the intake boot. here is some info about air leaks.
http://www.klemmvintage.com/airleaks.htm
It would be smart to stop starting that thing because it doesn't take much to have a blaster piston meltdown and NOBODY likes those.
Also could be the Tors or throttle override system, they can cause a lot of funky problems sometimes so most people remove the it.
Whats the compression at?
Also do this too,
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/
Hope this all helps, try all that and let us know...
If not,
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-perform-a-leak-down-test.44653/
As it says in the thread awk08 is the man for leak testers, you can also build your own.
Blasters are notorious for leaking through the intake boot. here is some info about air leaks.
http://www.klemmvintage.com/airleaks.htm
It would be smart to stop starting that thing because it doesn't take much to have a blaster piston meltdown and NOBODY likes those.
Also could be the Tors or throttle override system, they can cause a lot of funky problems sometimes so most people remove the it.
Whats the compression at?
Also do this too,
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/
Hope this all helps, try all that and let us know...
Idle setting, condensed version!
Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
The tors should be disabled, the brain is disconnected and the wire going to the carb is disconnected.
it ran the same before I rebuilt the top end. But now it wont start. I think its not getting spark
do a compression test 30 bucks at auto parts store for one.
maybe the woodruff key on flywheel has broken off.
check the reeds,exhaust restrictions
broken baffle inside the header pipe of exhaust,
take spark plug out attached to boot hold it to the side of cylinder to ground,kick it and see if it sparks
maybe the woodruff key on flywheel has broken off.
check the reeds,exhaust restrictions
broken baffle inside the header pipe of exhaust,
take spark plug out attached to boot hold it to the side of cylinder to ground,kick it and see if it sparks
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