modification help

d.shook3

New Member
Dec 15, 2010
133
1
0
west virginia
I just bought a blaster for $250 bucks all it needs is a stator. My buddy also has a blaster and we put his stator in it to see how it ran. Its deffinatly faster than his and thats all that really matters, but I wanna go faster. I was told that its bored .60 over has a wesico piston and a hot rods crank. I was wondering what cheap mods i could do to get more power. This here is a noob question but im curious and dont really know the answer. All of my friends tell me if I remove my air box cover ill have better throttle response? Also if anyone has a stator for sell let me know thanks.
 
What whitty means is to take a real assessment of the condition of your new ride.

Just because someone said that you have a bad stator doesn't mean that's all that's wrong with it.

It sounds like you're fairly green in the world of quads. You need to read, read, read, and when you think you are done read some more.

You need to download the factory service manual and go over the maintenance. Grease everything while you're not missing riding it yet. Check your compression, leak check it if at all possible, replace the transmission fluid, clean the air filter, and change the spark plug.
 
What whitty means is to take a real assessment of the condition of your new ride.

Just because someone said that you have a bad stator doesn't mean that's all that's wrong with it.

It sounds like you're fairly green in the world of quads. You need to read, read, read, and when you think you are done read some more.

You need to download the factory service manual and go over the maintenance. Grease everything while you're not missing riding it yet. Check your compression, leak check it if at all possible, replace the transmission fluid, clean the air filter, and change the spark plug.


i've been around quads all my life. I have checked everything on it. I rebuilt the carb put a new plug in has a brand new ir filter took the head off to see if there was any scares or noticable issues in the cylinder looked at the reeds put some ATF in the bottom end. Besides the stator the only other thing is brakes and i plan to do the disc brake conversion on it. i plan on putting vfore 3 reeds in it getting toomey b1 pipe tors elimintor kit and not sure what else.
 
It has a stock pipe on it? How was it considerably faster then your buddies? While you had it out flogging it did you do a plug chop to see if it's running lean? Lean = lotsa power but not for very long.

I understand being around quads/engines all your life but that's not the same thing as being around THAT blaster very long. You don't have any history to rely on to see if anything is changing when it's running.
 
It has a stock pipe on it? How was it considerably faster then your buddies? While you had it out flogging it did you do a plug chop to see if it's running lean? Lean = lotsa power but not for very long.

I understand being around quads/engines all your life but that's not the same thing as being around THAT blaster very long. You don't have any history to rely on to see if anything is changing when it's running.

it has a fmf header on it with a stock slip on
 
Anytime you change the amount of air coming in or going out of the engine, you need to rejet your bike. You can remove the airbox for an instant gain in power. If you already have an FMF headpipe, you're not going to see a HUGE increase by putting a toomey on it. Maybe some, but not a huge amount.

Remove your airbox lid and do a DIY timing advance. +3-+4 degrees is a good amount.

Those two will give you a bump in power
 
Anytime you change the amount of air coming in or going out of the engine, you need to rejet your bike. You can remove the airbox for an instant gain in power. If you already have an FMF headpipe, you're not going to see a HUGE increase by putting a toomey on it. Maybe some, but not a huge amount.

Remove your airbox lid and do a DIY timing advance. +3-+4 degrees is a good amount.

Those two will give you a bump in power

okay thanks for the help
 
It doesn't work like that... every quad is different and every situation is different. You'll need a range of jets and begin high and work your way down by doing plug chops until you have a nice mocha brown color.

What was that about seeming a "little green" and your reply was.... "been around them all my life". READ READ READ READ READ READ READ READ and then read some more.
 
It doesn't work like that... every quad is different and every situation is different. You'll need a range of jets and begin high and work your way down by doing plug chops until you have a nice mocha brown color.

What was that about seeming a "little green" and your reply was.... "been around them all my life". READ READ READ READ READ READ READ READ and then read some more.

thanks for all the advice this is my first 2 stroke other than my dads 2004 rm 250 he had
 
2 strokes, particularly air cooled ones, rely heavily on the incoming fuel and air charge for cooling the piston skirts (and in the case of mixing 2 stroke oil) coating everything inside with oil. If you are running lean, you are overheating the engine AND starving it for oil. It will lead to a blown engine.

There are several topics relating to jetting in the stickies in this section. Read them and expand your knowledge of the machine you are working on. Once you have an understanding of how your machine works, you'll have a much longer lived ride and you'll appreciate it that much more.

Also, rarely does a stator simply "die". Usually they develop an internal fault (either to ground or not), or they have a broken wire in the pigtail that connects to the wiring harness. If you swapped your buddies stator plate into your blaster and yours ran, then you've proven that it is in fact in the pigtail or coils themselves. There are three components on the stator plate; the charge coil, lighting coil, and trigger pickup. The lighting coil does exactly as it's name suggests... it runs the lights and has nothing to do with ignition.

The charging source coil produces AC voltage to charge the primary ignition coil so it can produce that bright blue spark. The trigger pickup tells the CDI unit when the engine is at a certain point in it's rotation so the CDI knows when to trigger the primary ignition coil to get the spark into the spark plug right when it's needed. If you have a problem with the charging source coil or the trigger pickup, you're engine won't fire for diddly squat. There is a trouble shooting section in the factory service manual (downloadable from a link on this forum) that can walk you through the steps to test the impedence on both the trigger pickup and charging source coil. I highly recommend you download that manual and get to reading...
 
i've been around quads all my life. I have checked everything on it. I rebuilt the carb put a new plug in has a brand new ir filter took the head off to see if there was any scares or noticable issues in the cylinder looked at the reeds put some ATF in the bottom end. Besides the stator the only other thing is brakes and i plan to do the disc brake conversion on it. i plan on putting vfore 3 reeds in it getting toomey b1 pipe tors elimintor kit and not sure what else.


you put ATF in the bottom end?? Thats gonna fry your tranny..

you need 10w-30 in there... preferably one made for motorcycles with a wet clutch?
 
What size should I put in 240 250?

your going to need a bigger jet than that for sure with that fmf probley start with a 270 and you said you had the cylinder off and reeds ect did you do a leak down test its a good idea after having the reeds out head off cylinder air leak will fry the top end in a hurry
 
I run ATF type F in my bottom end. About 40 hours on it now with no problems. It really helps with being able to tell when to change it. 10w-30 turns from grey with a golden tinge to just grey, real helpful *rollseyes*

ATF type F turns from light pink to dingy grey. Much easier to tell when it's time to go.