Lost on why blaster wont start.

big-dwolf

New Member
Feb 1, 2011
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Jacobsburg, OH
A friend of mine bought a stock 91 blaster that didn't run. So we tore it down to check the other guys work and found out that the wrist pin clip came out and gouged the cylinder. So we took it over to my cousin's house because he had built up three other blasters in the past. He had a brand new top end so we put it on. We change the bearings and seals on the bottom end. Noticed it didn't have spark and eventually found out it was the pulsar coil. We replaced it with a new one and got a strong bright blue spark. But it still would not start. We tested compression and got 140psi. Also leak tested bottom end and it held 6.5psi, it took over a half an hour to leak off. We are getting fuel and even used 2 stroke starting fluid to make sure and still not even a pop. Even pulled it for a while in second gear and still had no response. My cousin never seen this problem before and can't figure it out. We thought that the stator could have been on wrong, (spark timing issue) so we found one other way to put it on but still got the same result. Can other stators and flywheels fit the blaster? Just wandering if it might have wrong parts? Did I overlook anything? Any ideas will be much appreciated.
 
how bout the reeds ??? all there, not cracked or busted???
is the flywheel lined up on the woodruff key, and is the carb clean, fuel good, you say you have good spark ???
 
Has only a tether switch and is wired properly because it has a bright spark when kicked. The reeds are new but I will check them. It is getting fuel because when we pulled it for a while, the plug was soaked. We put a new plug in after that and checked spark again. It had spark but did not fire. The flywheel is on a new key and is seated properly.
 
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bad fuel, carb dumping too much fuel < floats ??? is it pissing fuel ??
clogged pipe/silencer ????
 
TORS! maybe... is it removed? that is exactly what will happen if TORS isnt disabled properly, it will spark great once and then nothing so you kick it over, you get a good spark, but then it wont run when you put plug back in and kick it. Sounds like it detonates once but then sputters out right?

Since its a 91, you should just have to unplug the throttle sensor, and unplug the connector coming off the big box on top of the carb. Make sure the wires arent spliced together or touching if someone already cut them.
 
The TORS is disconnected completely and there is no trace of fire at all but there is spark when checked. When the pulsar coil was put in, the bolt holes lined up but needed to shave .005" to .010" off the plastic to make fit in the bottom of the stator. They told me that it seemed it was firing 180 out. Even when they rotated the stator, it was still firing 180 out. Doesn't make since to me so I am going to check it myself when I get time this week.
 
Well, did not get around to checking the spark timing. This is because my friend got a stator from a running blaster off of ebay. Put it on and now it runs. The stators look similar but the bolt holes. The one that was on the blaster had elongated holes. Not parallel with the diameter for spark advancement. They were perpendicular to the diameter. Also noticed the spark of the one that was on it seemed to be constant. The one from ebay had a noticeable pulse.
 
Make sure the throttle is not stuck open.... even if it has an aftermarket carb make sure the slide is in correctly and closing completely.

make sure the pipe is not plugged up.

as dumb as it sounds make sure the piston is installed correctly. Ive seen people put them in backwards
 
you said you had a new coil on there, isnt that where everything is grounded? or am i thinking of the cellanoid? and if it is sand it down in there to make sure its grounded good.
 
Thought I'd come back to this form to see what else was posted. I would like to give an update to a few more issues we had but resolved. The bike ran great and ran for a while. My friend decided to give back the top end to my cousin after he got another top end and had it bored (it was used) to freshen it up. It did blow up after the first tank (pretty much after brake in). This happened twice to him but it was because they didn't check the amount of wear on the crank where the rod is. I think they said the max clearance between it and the bearing was supposed to be .028" and they had .032". They put a good crank in it and redid the top end (it is now .060" over). It has been running great from late March to present. Moral of the story is to check everything over thoroughly and do not assume anything.