jetting question on a 96 blaster?
- Thread starter Coollaxer
- Start date
Blaster jetting?
So I got a 96 blaster and it's got a full lrd exhaust system, just rebuilt a millimeter over with weisco piston kit, aftermarket air filter( it's a k&n style but it's a no name brand I guesse, no air box lid. Now I have a 230 main right now and need to know the correct main jet, it hasn't even been started yet and I don't wanna start it until I get the correct jetting or at least close to it, so what's the next step?
So I got a 96 blaster and it's got a full lrd exhaust system, just rebuilt a millimeter over with weisco piston kit, aftermarket air filter( it's a k&n style but it's a no name brand I guesse, no air box lid. Now I have a 230 main right now and need to know the correct main jet, it hasn't even been started yet and I don't wanna start it until I get the correct jetting or at least close to it, so what's the next step?
Re: Blaster jetting?
We told you in the other thread you made....
Leak test, then get your jets and plug chop
We cannot tell you the exact jet you need, thats why you must plug chop
I smell a fish.........
We told you in the other thread you made....
Leak test, then get your jets and plug chop
We cannot tell you the exact jet you need, thats why you must plug chop
I smell a fish.........
Re: Blaster jetting?
Well, I know most others will probably be annoyed for telling you this, but I would guess about 300-320 main.
You must be sure the motor passes a leak test and that float level is correctly set, then after trying a new jet, do a plug chop.
Every motor has its own sweet spot where it would like to be jetted, and there are MANY things that influence it to.
Please note the following: Too small jet = fried motor!!!
And hey, its not my motor thats going to get fried if you don't take all the good advice already given...
Well, I know most others will probably be annoyed for telling you this, but I would guess about 300-320 main.
You must be sure the motor passes a leak test and that float level is correctly set, then after trying a new jet, do a plug chop.
Every motor has its own sweet spot where it would like to be jetted, and there are MANY things that influence it to.
Please note the following: Too small jet = fried motor!!!
And hey, its not my motor thats going to get fried if you don't take all the good advice already given...
Re: Blaster jetting?
I know you did I'm just trying to get as much info as possible, thanks for your time!!
I know you did I'm just trying to get as much info as possible, thanks for your time!!
Correct procedure is 3 - 5 heat cycles, re tension head and jug bolts, then ride 2 tanks of gas at no more than 3/4 throttle at varying revs.
One reason for 3/4 throttle is to keep it off the main circuit until the rings have bedded.
By keeping it off the main jet, damage can be avoided if one has chosen the wrong size jet prior to plug chop.
Another reason for the lower throttle opening is to avoid the extreme pressures that push the rings outward toward the cylinder, which will prematurely wear material from the rings and crosshatching of the bore.
I consider 2 tanks sufficient to semi glaze the bore and fully bed the rings.
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Just my opinion, In this Sub-Zero Arctic freeze that the whole country is in, It might not be a bad Idea to try and wait untill it warms up a bit. This sub zero freeze isn't good for you being outside or your blaster!
I know here in PA its supposed to get up into the +40's and +50's by the weekend. It might pay off to be patient and wait for better weather.
Fred
I know here in PA its supposed to get up into the +40's and +50's by the weekend. It might pay off to be patient and wait for better weather.
Fred
I would love to be in the +10 +20 range, i dont care for this -10 -20 shiz...
Leak test, heatcycle, re-check tourques, ride out 2 tanks of gas no WOT, then plug chop till you find the right Main Jet. But make sure you have a large main jet in there right off the get go.
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At least a #330, preferably a #340, a small main will not satisfy the needs of a LRD pipe on the needle circuit.
Ok thanks guys and can I just get a more specific break in method? First time doing this so I don't want to mrs this up and what's the highest gear I should go in break in period? And I have to break it In with the 230 main? I thought running with the 230 main will hurt the engine...
You must not run the motor with a #230 main, or you will be rebuilding before the end of the day.
The main must be #330 or bigger!
If you ride in extreme cold, lift the needle up one clip.
3 - 5 heat cycles.
Re tension head and jug.
Ride 2 tanks of gas at no more than 3/4 throttle in any gear.
It is ok for the revs to get up some, but do not let the motor labour.
Do not exceed 3/4 throttle, because then you get on to the main and if it is too small carnage may happen.
A word of warning with the forged piston, make sure that the motor is fully warmed up before you ride. Forged pistons a very prone to seizing in cold weather if not warmed up fully.
Ok thanks, you have a been a great amount of help and I know this is off topic but is there any chance I can get get a pair of nerfs with built in heel guards on here anywhere? For around 150-165? Thanks!
On here? Someone is selling a set, but theres already a line for those...
With heel guards are not cheap, check ebay
With heel guards are not cheap, check ebay
Yeah I've been on there looking all the time, can't seem to find any of them for a reasonable price In fact I've only seen one on eBay and there like 260 I'd be better off a nice set of tusks and raptor or yfz heel guards
Just to throw this in. Running lean is very likely to require a complete top and bottom end rebuild, often requiring new cases. Running lean (either from improper jetting or air leaks) lowers lubrication and and increases expansion, often breaking the piston and shoving pieces of it through the bottom of the engine cases. Due to this, good Blaster cases are getting harder to find due to these 2 factor's.
