It has spark and fuel, not starting

[BrandonH]

That's a good point Blaaster

I'm will try another compression tester tomorrow.

It didn't have spark when I bought it. Coil and stator passed a OHM test, cleaned up harness and has a nice blue spark u can hear at the plug when grounded on the head.

35 pilot and 230 main. I know the pilot is a tad big but all I got and should still start. Air screw 1.5 turns.

 

[BrandonH]

? how are you testing for spark?,you got it to spark with parts that other owner had no spark,when purchased
silly question but for a reason,what size main jet and pilot jet you got?

Sorry had to reread that. I got it to spark with the same parts. The wiring harness had a few butt connectors crimped on it. But I pulled the harness, got rid of what I didn't need, ditched the crimped connections then solder and heat shrieked them.

Not sure if it was a bad ground, TORS issue, bad connection somewhere.. But it's got spark now. I'm sorta curious to know the reason you asked though .

 

[Awk08]

a 35 pilot (too large) should require at least 2-1/2 turns out, maybe more to give the correct air/fuel ratio for starting.
1.5 turns is the starting point for the 32.5 stock pilot. a richer pilot will require more air, which more airscrew turns out provides.

 

[Blaaster]

A large pilot with the lesser amount of air will provide a rich mixture, which should aid starting from cold, especially with low compression.

A problem with the #35 pilot would arise when the engine warmed up by providing too much fuel.

 

[BrandonH]

Ok work week over.. Now time to work on the blaster.

Made a BIG discovery.... For the worse

The previous owner had a bolt in the crankcase vent tube to cover up a boo boo. It's leaking BAD. With a constant supply of 10psi at the compressor flowing into the leakdown tester, it's only holding 3psi on the tester. It's pouring out the crankcase clutch side bad.

So I just pulled the motor out and taking a water break. Is this either a cracked case or crazy shot seal?

 

[BrandonH]

Just tore the clutch side apart, it is the crank seal on the clutch side that is leaking. And it's leaking horribly bad.

Which means I have to split the cases to change right?

No play in the crank bearings from what I can tell they are tight and spin smooth

 

[Herpderplol]

no splitting of cases needed, i changed mine while still in my quad.

if you have everything removed correctly, you can put a screw into the seal and pull it out. and no guarantee of how hard the pull is, mine took all my strength