Yea the parking break isn't engaged. At first I didn't know how to use it lol but realized had to press the button
Issue with Blaster
- Thread starter Christian Welch
- Start date
up close pics
make sure that red line on your gas cap don't get pinched.
it will block fuel flow.Picture sucking on a soda bottle and never letting up for air lol
the stock one is black and much softer then most aftermarket lines.
make sure that red line on your gas cap don't get pinched.
it will block fuel flow.Picture sucking on a soda bottle and never letting up for air lol
the stock one is black and much softer then most aftermarket lines.
You have an after market DG silencer on it , that may affect the jetting.
The following should be done whenever changing the jetting.
It is called a plug chop?
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
The following should be done whenever changing the jetting.
It is called a plug chop?
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
When just learning about this stuff I find it easier to deal with one thing at a time. Lets start with the carb... First open the manual and acquaint yourself with the names of the parts inside and out. What the jets are, where they are and what part of the throttle/revs it controls. Also make sure all of the parts to the carb are actually still there (there is a small brass washer under the main jet that sometimes gets lost) . How to adjust the float, and how it actually works.
In your circumstance you most likely only need a main jet change and adjusting the idle. Look in the manual to find where the main jet is. Change it to maybe a 250,260 ?? (only a plug chop can tell you for sure though) a 250 or 260 main jet should get you good enough to plug chop.. You "could" go back to the stock jet but you will be lean on the top. I don't recommend riding it with the stock jet in it. It might run like a champ but that's because you could be borderline "To lean" Also there is a needle in the slide, what color is it?
In your circumstance you most likely only need a main jet change and adjusting the idle. Look in the manual to find where the main jet is. Change it to maybe a 250,260 ?? (only a plug chop can tell you for sure though) a 250 or 260 main jet should get you good enough to plug chop.. You "could" go back to the stock jet but you will be lean on the top. I don't recommend riding it with the stock jet in it. It might run like a champ but that's because you could be borderline "To lean" Also there is a needle in the slide, what color is it?
As of right now I can't get to my fourwheeler bcuz its at a friends garage. I might go get it and bring it to my house so I can look and take pictures to show you guys. I plan on taking it to my local cycle shop this weekend but I don't feel like paying money if this is a simple issue. So sometime during the week I'll try to bring my atv to my house and I'll try the things everyone is telling me to do.
I finally got to go look at my fourwheeler. I took a few videos. So it starts up and we played around with it. Air screw idle screw.
It's stilling bogging out. I seem to run good when we turn gas off then start it and it sounds good
could be the floats,sticking flooding it??
it is running lean more then likely by shutting off gas
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/easy-and-almost-free-way-to-stop-leaky-carbs.33335/
it is running lean more then likely by shutting off gas
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/easy-and-almost-free-way-to-stop-leaky-carbs.33335/
seems to be reving up good sometimes when we hold throttle and mess with both screws. but when we let go off throttle it'll die. It will idle sometimes good too. But when we turned off gas and then started it, it sounded good!
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