hey guys. i got this blaster about 2 months ago now. wouldnt run. disconected tors and it wouldnt kick start. so. i found out i could push start it. anyways. i tore this bike down completely (piks soon) and completely rebuilt it. spent about 600 bucks since ive gotten it. now its put back together with the tors still disconnected. now i have intermittent spark. sometimes its strong, sometimes its week, and sometimes i have NONE. i cannot figure it out. everything is exactly as it was when i took it apart. it wont push start nor will it kick start. and actually. it WILL start VERY few and far in between times. when it does start. it runs and drives great. just like it should. but when i kill it and try to start it wont start back up again. unless i kick it a bajillion times. does anybody know what could be the problem. i pulled the stator and flywheel and cleaned them up. ive double and tripple checked all connections and ive changed spark plugs. im at a complete loss. does anybody know how to build a race harness to get rid of everything accept the stator, coil, and headlight/taillight. isnt there a way to get rid of the CDI?? anyways. any and all help is apreciated. im just frustrated and pissed off. and BTW. the top end was rebuilt so i know compression is not an issue.... thanks again.
Intermittent Spark
- Thread starter Wojo
- Start date
Damn, man. I know how that feels. Electrical problems suck. X(X( Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest. 
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
Best of luck! I:I My '86 Moto-4 was running like crap and suffered from an inconsistent spark earlier this year. One new $ 15.00 ignition coil later, and I've never had to look back...
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
Best of luck! I:I My '86 Moto-4 was running like crap and suffered from an inconsistent spark earlier this year. One new $ 15.00 ignition coil later, and I've never had to look back...
ok. ill try that later this week. other thing that doesnt make sence is that when it does start. it runs and drives fine untill i turn it off again. i did also get rid of my oil injection. and i disconected the sensor. am i supposed to loop the wires together or do i just leave them disconnected??
Well, since the engine runs normally when it finally DOES start, your problem could be a bad CDI box. I'd do the tests I described and see what kind of results you get. This will give you a good starting point. A CDI with issues will behave very strangely.
As for the oil level sensor wiring, don't loop them together. Leave 'em hanging, or tape 'em up, if that makes you feel any better. The 'sensor' is just a switch that closes when the oil level drops in the tank and sends power to the oil level warning light. Looping the two wires together will cause the oil warning light to illuminate anytime the engine is run. Not a problem, but not what you want, either.
One more thought on your wierd electrical syndrome: How is your flywheel (ignition rotor) key? Pull the 'wheel and check it. An out-of-time Blasty will be Hell to get fired, but it will appear to run 'normally' once started until shut off again. Replace a key that's sheared or missing. You never know. I should have mentioned this earlier. Check this before condemning an expensive electrical component...
ok. yeah. the flywheel key is ok. i did notice when i took the flywheel off that it was rusty as hell inside. so i cleaned it all up with carb cleaner and a rag. and then i took a little emery cloth to the magnets on the flywheel. didnt help at all. im thinking when i get my taxes im just going to buy a ricky stator and a new Coil and see where that gets me. altho. i AM going to test to see if the coil is going strong.and if the stator is doing as its supposed to. so. thanks for the help. if you can think of anything else let me know please. im willing to learn. and i also agree on some rep points for you my freind.
HAHAHA THATS SUCKS 4 U!!!!!!!!!!!!..................................
No.. but really i had the same problem but i ordered a new coil from derbycycles.net for $10 and it works great... best ten bucks i ever spent
No.. but really i had the same problem but i ordered a new coil from derbycycles.net for $10 and it works great... best ten bucks i ever spent
