How to use an air gun?

[yamaha28]

Alright so here is the deal! I have enough parts to build a rolling blaster frame and most of another. What I want to do is paint my parts up all nice and purty then assemble and sell it. I have painted a blaster with paint cans before and it works fine. This time I really want to go balls out and use a pneumatic air gun. I just found one recently in my dads garage with a manual so I know how it works inside and out. The question is, what paint do I buy to put in it? I want to do my frame soon, right after I get my paint stripper. What do I use for the frame and eventually the plastics?

 

[sicivicdude]

The people to ask are probably your local paint shop.

Remember custom blend automobile paint is usually a two step process with the base coat being low lustre low VOC and the gloss coat being high shine high VOC two part enamel. Two part paints are also usually much more expensive than "single coat" systems although the finish is usually better. Single coat paint systems end up with a decent shine to them but not like clear coated paint.

 

[sicivicdude]

Also, what type of paint spray gun is this? A HVLP top loader or a venturi "can gun"?

Binks No9 was about the standard venturi type spray gun for MANY years but they've been mostly supplanted by the HVLP "top loader" style. As paint coatings have evolved, so have the mechanisms which spray them.

 

[yamaha28]

I have an older bottom feed gun, so i guess it the can gun. I am looking for a new airbrush gun because I mostly do smaller stuff like handlebars or a-arms.

Single coat paint would probably be fine for what I am doing now. When I repaint my own blaster I will use two part paint.

I will go to my local paint store and see what info I can get out of them.

 

[Scrappy]

The most cost effective way is a rattle can, If you want to use automotive paint a base coat clear coat or what is called a 2 stage paint is your best bet, but its not just putting pain in a can and spraying it, you will first have to buy a primer which takes a hardner and a reducer to spray atleast 2 good coats on it, then wet sand it down with 400 grit wet/dry sand paper and then wash your parts up good and let dry and get a tack rag and wipe everything off then your ready for your base coat, The base coat takes a reducer also, spray 3 good even coats on with about 10-15 min. flash time between coats and wait about 30 min. before you spray the clear coat which also takes a reducer and a hardner and spray 3 coats on with a 10-15 min flash time between coats, approx cost of paint materials for a base coat clear coat paint job with the primer and hardners and reducers is about $175.00 to do it the right way or about $20.00 for the rattle can way, Your choice but if your selling it i know which way i would go. Good Luck

 

[Blaaster]

Preparation is important and the primer must be abraded all over to allow the top coats to bind to avoid flaking and chipping.

Before using the wet and dry paper blow a light mist of black or dark colour paint over the entire surface.

Rub back until all of the dark paint has dissapeared and you will be sure you have not missed a spot, then the next coat of paint is going to hold on there.

 

[yamaha28]

Ah, so rattle cans it will be! Seems like it takes a lot of work to use an air gun. I will rattle it up and use that sanding idea from blaaster. Thanks guys!

 

[sicivicdude]

The most cost effective way is a rattle can, If you want to use automotive paint a base coat clear coat or what is called a 2 stage paint is your best bet, but its not just putting pain in a can and spraying it, you will first have to buy a primer which takes a hardner and a reducer to spray atleast 2 good coats on it, then wet sand it down with 400 grit wet/dry sand paper and then wash your parts up good and let dry and get a tack rag and wipe everything off then your ready for your base coat, The base coat takes a reducer also, spray 3 good even coats on with about 10-15 min. flash time between coats and wait about 30 min. before you spray the clear coat which also takes a reducer and a hardner and spray 3 coats on with a 10-15 min flash time between coats, approx cost of paint materials for a base coat clear coat paint job with the primer and hardners and reducers is about $175.00 to do it the right way or about $20.00 for the rattle can way, Your choice but if your selling it i know which way i would go. Good Luck

Damn bo, you ran him away! LOL

Doing a 2 stage base clear (3 stage technically.... primer base clear) is going to be expensive and not hold up real well. Something about the two different layers of paint not flexing against each other making it flake. Anyway, 2 stage is GREAT for sheet metal not so much for ATV plastics.

A single stage paint can have plasticisers added to the paint itself to make it so flexible, the plastic will break before the paint will come off. It's the bees knees on plastic.

Rattle can CAN look good if a lot of the same advice given already is followed for the plastic paint (krylon fusion ). You want to make sure you get all the old paint and dirt off, wipe the plastic down VERY well with "wax and grease" remover (available at the paint shop) or strong solvent to remove any trace oil or dirt.

Make two or MORE light coats letting the paint dry mostly between coats while using the Fusion paint. It doesn't like being sprayed on heavy and it doesn't stick as well if you spray it on too heavy or let it dry COMPLETELY before recoating.

 

[Larry's Shee]

A little trick I learned doing a motorcycle frame is using a slow reducer. That way when you spray the tube closest to you the overspray will flow into the paint on the oppisite side. Don't give up on the gun so quick. If you have a paint shop close, see if they have an oops mix, discontinued color/type , or check a local body shop for left overs they might want to get rid of cheap. Even check Autozone, they have quarts of paint.

 

[sublunacy]

do the hardest deepest first. not last. paint goes down better/ even that way.

Paint sucks hard for frames compared to powder coating. PC is cheaper easier and faster better durable looks amazing.... on and on.

how are you going to sand blast the old paint off? The PC shop can handle that to.

NO ONE will want a hand painted frame. 2 part paint or otherwise. it will be tons of work, and doing a good job means grinding, filler more grinding then filler then sand paper. And thats is just a fraction of the work. *look it up*, you don't need a blaster forum to paint something. Show us you make wise decisions and pick a colour from a local PC shop.

If you want to learn to paint frames right u can start by buying and extra frame and watching youtubes on motorcycle chopper frame painting. You will see what i meen about using filler or your paint will run from all the crappy nooks& welds........ paint cant go on even, pools and then runs then you have to do it all over from scratch . Lovely when does this begin?

 

[Surfrjag]

Baby bear- rattle can is easy and effective not to mention cheap. This isn't very durable but will touch up easy.

Mama bear- paint gun. use your dads spray gun after visiting the automotive refinishing store to talk to them about various finishes they offer and the best way to use them. "Pro-finishes" is the place I use. Be sure and ask them aboit 2k urithane single stage paint. With practice and patience you can get a very nice finish. Did I mention practice?

Papa bear- powder coat! Most durable and can't forget most expensive... you drop it off at the powder coater and then pick it up when its done. Wham bam thank u ma'am

 

[Budget_Blaster]

Why dont you just use a single stage enamel from rural king or farm and fleet?

I painted an old s10 ford blue years ago my buddy still has it and its still just as blue as it was the day i shot it no chipping flaking nothing.I thinned it out a bit but its tough sh*t once its on there and looks good.

 

[EvilElvis]

PC!!!!
_________________

 

[Blaner]

read my last 2 posts in this thread: i explained it to triple B.. http://www.blasterforum.com/pics-vids-9/time-some-blaster-tlc-43973/#post548253

 

[EvilElvis]

no matter how you paint your frame as soon as you pressure wash say goodnight to your paint or if you ride hard....Plastics there is no good way the paint it will come off and you will be pissed u wasted all that time preping and painting them no matter if you buy the professional plasti paint for EG: plastic bumpers primers hardners and paint ect. ....buy new plastics... Moral of this story Powder coat....new plastics

 

[Blaner]

im not a powder coat fan....at all....reason being that i hit a lot of rocks, powder coat chips and flakes, water goes in behind the plastic and the plastic is not attached to the metal on a cellular level as is paint, thus, the water can creep underneath the plastic, its more like shrink wrap. the result? RUST!!!

we once did our old Moto4 rims in powdercoat, and was the worst decision ever. Plus, stripping the old powdercoat off again 5 years later was the worst job in the world, only to reveal totally messed up rims from rust.

It is application based, if you ride grass and dirt, go for it! if you ride rocks and sea water like me, its not the best idea

 

[EvilElvis]

my blasty stays muddy so Ive given up on appearence I'll wash it 2hrs later muddy again ....the MUD look is in LOL