I would never reccomend boring for more power. I agree that it would hardly be noticeable. I just think there would have to be some kind of increase in power.
How much hp does my blaster have
- Thread starter longlive2stroke
- Start date
If I was to get new Jets and sh*t like that for my 98 blaster bored .80 over with the stock carburetor...What would I get, cause I have absolutely no clue, don't really know anything about 2-strokes...or 4-strokes for that matter...I'm new to tinkering with engines...
So what would I get and how much will power increase, and at what price roughly?
So what would I get and how much will power increase, and at what price roughly?
Exhaust pipe, head re chamber and porting, that is where the power is.
Of course the power will increase if the bore size is bigger because the capacity is larger, 80 over = about 2cc.
The ass dyno will not be able to tell the difference.
The stock motor bored 80 over requires no change in jets.
For some increase in power for little cash outlay one can change to a pod air filter or remove the airbox lid, but this must be jetted for.
The closer the filter is to the carby, the better the breathing, so some increase in power.
If you know someone that can split open the stock pipe and remove the dampening rubbish, some more power can be gained.
Some say that removing baffles or replacing the stock muffler can result in a small power increase.
Removing the oil injection is not needed as the oil ratio is great for power, about 20:1.
When folks remove the injection and mix at 32:1, some power is lost due to poorer ring sealing.
Pre mixing also requires a jet change.
Whatever changes are made to the intake or exhaust tract, a plug chop should be done to confirm jetting.
Of course the power will increase if the bore size is bigger because the capacity is larger, 80 over = about 2cc.
The ass dyno will not be able to tell the difference.
The stock motor bored 80 over requires no change in jets.
For some increase in power for little cash outlay one can change to a pod air filter or remove the airbox lid, but this must be jetted for.
The closer the filter is to the carby, the better the breathing, so some increase in power.
If you know someone that can split open the stock pipe and remove the dampening rubbish, some more power can be gained.
Some say that removing baffles or replacing the stock muffler can result in a small power increase.
Removing the oil injection is not needed as the oil ratio is great for power, about 20:1.
When folks remove the injection and mix at 32:1, some power is lost due to poorer ring sealing.
Pre mixing also requires a jet change.
Whatever changes are made to the intake or exhaust tract, a plug chop should be done to confirm jetting.
Ok, So here's my problem
I bought a 98 Blaster bored 80 over for $400. When I got it, it didn't have spark. I check everything with a voltage meter and everything was good. Took the Coil off and put it back on a day later, was getting all kinds of spark. Filled the gas tank, started on second kick. However, it would not idle. There is no idle screw, so I adjusted at the thumb throttle, it idles now. The other problems that I can't seem to fix are...It has a brand new clutch in it, but I can't get the clutch to grab/release, it drags, so if you are in neutral and put it into 1st gear it stalls unless you stay on the throttle a little. I took apart the clutch and inspect it and everything is good, did some adjustments to the center bolt in the clutch basket to tighten it up, still not working correctly... ANY IDEAS???
Other problem, I bought a new air filter for it. For some reason the thing has absolutely NO power. I can't even get the wheels to come up in first gear if I yank on it with everything I got... I took the carb apart and inspected the jet and the reeds. Everything seems to be in perfect condition. I am mixing the gas at 32:1 because the auto oiler has been removed, TORS has also been removed. I have absolutely no idea why this thing spits and sputters and has NO power... The motor has been completely rebuilt, only has about 5 hours on it. Checked the compression twice...once I got 75 psi...checked it after about 25 minutes of riding and now has increased to 95psi, so I believe that the new piston and rings are still seating themselves... Please someone help me with this problem...I am about to swear off Blasters for life!!!
I bought a 98 Blaster bored 80 over for $400. When I got it, it didn't have spark. I check everything with a voltage meter and everything was good. Took the Coil off and put it back on a day later, was getting all kinds of spark. Filled the gas tank, started on second kick. However, it would not idle. There is no idle screw, so I adjusted at the thumb throttle, it idles now. The other problems that I can't seem to fix are...It has a brand new clutch in it, but I can't get the clutch to grab/release, it drags, so if you are in neutral and put it into 1st gear it stalls unless you stay on the throttle a little. I took apart the clutch and inspect it and everything is good, did some adjustments to the center bolt in the clutch basket to tighten it up, still not working correctly... ANY IDEAS???
Other problem, I bought a new air filter for it. For some reason the thing has absolutely NO power. I can't even get the wheels to come up in first gear if I yank on it with everything I got... I took the carb apart and inspected the jet and the reeds. Everything seems to be in perfect condition. I am mixing the gas at 32:1 because the auto oiler has been removed, TORS has also been removed. I have absolutely no idea why this thing spits and sputters and has NO power... The motor has been completely rebuilt, only has about 5 hours on it. Checked the compression twice...once I got 75 psi...checked it after about 25 minutes of riding and now has increased to 95psi, so I believe that the new piston and rings are still seating themselves... Please someone help me with this problem...I am about to swear off Blasters for life!!!
So I took the Blaster out for another ride today... The clutch problem seems to be intermittent, sometimes it works great, sometimes it still drags...???
The issue with the power, seems to me to be either a carb issue or a CDI issue... I noticed today that it only gets about 1/4 throttle before it starts bogging, full throttle is like an idle, but 10 seconds later it is screaming and wheeling in all gears, then it chokes out and stalls... Then won't start, after kicking about 30 times it starts back up and the cycle starts all over again...bogging then screaming then stalling...
This is the odd part, with the gas on it starts and idles ok, but bogs out over 1/4 throttle, if I turn the gas off, it continues to bog out for about 5-7 seconds, then slowing it opens up until it is screaming power again, then stalls (obviously out of gas)... Is this a carb problem? bad float or bad needle...???
The issue with the power, seems to me to be either a carb issue or a CDI issue... I noticed today that it only gets about 1/4 throttle before it starts bogging, full throttle is like an idle, but 10 seconds later it is screaming and wheeling in all gears, then it chokes out and stalls... Then won't start, after kicking about 30 times it starts back up and the cycle starts all over again...bogging then screaming then stalling...
This is the odd part, with the gas on it starts and idles ok, but bogs out over 1/4 throttle, if I turn the gas off, it continues to bog out for about 5-7 seconds, then slowing it opens up until it is screaming power again, then stalls (obviously out of gas)... Is this a carb problem? bad float or bad needle...???
Do not be too quick to blame the humble Blaster, most problems, at least 95% are caused by operator error.
Firstly something is wrong if after only 5 hours on a fresh build you have only 96psi.
Has a leak test been performed since rebuild? Something that must be done to a fresh build and at least twice per season.
Your symptoms by the way you describe, sound like a combination of an air leak and a flooding carby.
The bogging a 1/4 sounds like the needle is set too lean, or the oil injection nipple is not sealed, allowing air in.
Is the float level correct, and does the carby leak any fuel?
Has the carby been jetted for the mods done, like, if you got a different type of filter it could need 2 sizes larger main jet.
32:1 pre mix itself calls for a main jet change of one size larger.
Inspect the carby boot carefully, flexing it well when you leak test, they have been known to crack and leak under vibration.
Leak test the motor.
While you have the exhaust pipe off look up the port for signs of piston damage (I feel you may not like what you see)
Post all the mods and jetting numbers and we will try to tell you what the problem may be.
I would leak test the motor before you blow it up. Clean the carb really well. If the carb still has the tors cap still in it, the carb idle is the big screw on it. The carb will not have a slide stop unless you buy the kit to properly remove the tors. I would also check your reeds to make sure they are sealing correctly. But first off, leak test. Than compression test.
Some shops too, do not know what a leak test is.
Pre mix requires a jet change, because if you add oil to fuel the AFR changes as the quantity of fuel that passes through the jets is diminished.
Here is something for your eddyfication.
http://www.bridgestonemotorcycle.com/documents/oilpremix6.pdf
and
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IMO, that 36 is overkill for that cylinder/pipe combo,
a 36mm is max for a ported 240 cylinder trail machine, again...IMO
larger carbs are aimed at high rpm power, but the pipe is low/mids.
but may produce low/mid 30's if tuned correctly ?
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