I have a 2000 Yamaha blaster the bike has a high performance coil pack boscow power reeds 30.bore high performance clutch and an fmf with a dg silencer I just put a fmf header pipe on it and I put a new clutch plates on it it was running bad it would spuddered at the end of every gear and so I tuned it to 1.5 on the oil and air screw and it has full power and does not spuder but it revs really loud what can I do to make it stop revving loud but have full performance and it has a 290 main in it
high reving
- Thread starter blasterbeast200
- Start date
When was last time you did a leak test?
Your description leaves a lot to be desired
"Revving loud" does that mean run-away, free rev?
Would almost seem you did something while working on it, to suddenly need to adjust the air screw. Did you lay it over to do clutch?
Your description leaves a lot to be desired
"Revving loud" does that mean run-away, free rev?
Would almost seem you did something while working on it, to suddenly need to adjust the air screw. Did you lay it over to do clutch?
no I didn't lay it over and it shifts fine the air filter was really dirty can that make it idle highWhen was last time you did a leak test?
Your description leaves a lot to be desired
"Revving loud" does that mean run-away, free rev?
Would almost seem you did something while working on it, to suddenly need to adjust the air screw. Did you lay it over to do clutch?
lots of talk about leak test lately
@Blaaster get after it
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/about-air-leaks-save-your-engine.55537/#post-763164
@Blaaster get after it
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/about-air-leaks-save-your-engine.55537/#post-763164
Clean the air filter, might as well clean carb while you're at it. My thought was if it was layed over for clutch work something may have got jiggled, dirt into jets etc.
No matter, if you needed to adjust the carb something is going on and you need to investigate further, IMHO.
No matter, if you needed to adjust the carb something is going on and you need to investigate further, IMHO.
First things first...
#1 ... WASH YOUR BIKE COMPLETELY AND THOROUGHLY!
Don't work on a filthy bike like a slob. Falling dirt can get into all sorts of things. That means washing
underneath everything too... like the fuel tank, and ALL the plastics. I can't count how many times
folks have brought me a bike or quad to work on, only to show up with a filthy muddy bike....
"you want me to work on that?" ..... "Come back when its clean".
#2 ... DO A LEAK TEST!
That way you know if your bike has any vacuum/pressure leaks. This will also prevent this
thread from going on needlessly for 10+ pages saving EVERYBODY aggravation and time
because they didn't want to do the "basic steps" in the repair in the first place.
You mentioned modifications to your blaster. How many of these where just done
recently?
After you have taken care of the above, do as Larry said and clean your carb inside and out. This means
disassemble it, remove all the parts (jets) to make sure they are not plugged up, set float height, etc.
Spraying the outside off with carb cleaner and making it "look" clean doesn't count.
While your at it, clean that air filter!!! Its easy to do and the simplest thing to get too.
Also... install a nice fresh NGK BR8ES, or B8ES plug.
That little screw you adjusted has nothing to do with anything but the fuel air adjustment for idle.
Good luck.
#1 ... WASH YOUR BIKE COMPLETELY AND THOROUGHLY!
Don't work on a filthy bike like a slob. Falling dirt can get into all sorts of things. That means washing
underneath everything too... like the fuel tank, and ALL the plastics. I can't count how many times
folks have brought me a bike or quad to work on, only to show up with a filthy muddy bike....
"you want me to work on that?" ..... "Come back when its clean".
#2 ... DO A LEAK TEST!
That way you know if your bike has any vacuum/pressure leaks. This will also prevent this
thread from going on needlessly for 10+ pages saving EVERYBODY aggravation and time
because they didn't want to do the "basic steps" in the repair in the first place.
You mentioned modifications to your blaster. How many of these where just done
recently?
After you have taken care of the above, do as Larry said and clean your carb inside and out. This means
disassemble it, remove all the parts (jets) to make sure they are not plugged up, set float height, etc.
Spraying the outside off with carb cleaner and making it "look" clean doesn't count.
While your at it, clean that air filter!!! Its easy to do and the simplest thing to get too.
Also... install a nice fresh NGK BR8ES, or B8ES plug.
That little screw you adjusted has nothing to do with anything but the fuel air adjustment for idle.
Good luck.
I think the leak test is a great thing but what's the deal? Is the Blaster that bad of a engine, I've owned so many 2 strokes it would take awhile to count, but never had one start leaking air and blow up!
What's the deal with this obsession! Is this Yamaha crappy?
What's the deal with this obsession! Is this Yamaha crappy?
No... its an excellent engine design! Very versatile, and very durable. Leak down tests have been around a very long time. A bad leak can cause a lean condition because "extra" air is being drawn into the engine without going through the carb. Its pretty important. Most two stroke engines that seize up, or melt down is due to improper "lean" jetting. That's where a "plug chop" comes into play.
Every 2 stroke i know can suffer an air leak if not maintained or looked after properly. The main reasons for fried pistons are an air leak or improper jetting.
This is why I "Soap Box" about crank seals. Unless you have replaced them, the newest they can be is 9 yrs old.
If anything has been worked on, it isn't factory new/perfect, hence warped intakes, nicked up jugs, cases, etc.
Biggest thing is learning from what happend as to how it was running/sounded like before it blew. So if you experience same thing again, you'll know.
If anything has been worked on, it isn't factory new/perfect, hence warped intakes, nicked up jugs, cases, etc.
Biggest thing is learning from what happend as to how it was running/sounded like before it blew. So if you experience same thing again, you'll know.
The reason that avidly promote leak testing is because so many guys do not use torque wrenches to assemble their engines, they just pull the nuts down as tight as they can trying not to break them.
As any good mechanic knows this is a poor practice, especially on the reed block and carby boot!
Over tightening the intake boot will warp it and cause a major leak.
Every rebuild should be leak tested before starting the engine and at least twice a season.
As any good mechanic knows this is a poor practice, especially on the reed block and carby boot!
Over tightening the intake boot will warp it and cause a major leak.
Every rebuild should be leak tested before starting the engine and at least twice a season.
