Help with timing.
- Thread starter timstoys
- Start date
The timing is the timing lol. Only way it can be changed is by having the stator plated manually modded to advance the timing. Other than that it is what it is.
By heats up what do you mean? Its an air cooled engine so its going to run hot but its designed that way. Not really understanding that you are looking for.
By heats up what do you mean? Its an air cooled engine so its going to run hot but its designed that way. Not really understanding that you are looking for.
From my understanding when Yamaha went away from points and mechanical advance they started using the the CDI to advance the timing (in reality it retards from an advanced position of the pulser?). With a timing light attached I don't see any movement of my timing marks. The problem is that at steady light throttle cruising the engine gets very hot.
I am still confused about why your fixating on timing?
The timing on a blaster is a fixed point. If everything is installed correctly, stator, flywheel, woodruff key, cdi then the timing is a set point. There is no way to change it so there is no need for a timing light as the timing is a fixed point. The only way to adjust the timing is to dremel out the mounting holes and manually rotate the stator then tighten it back down. OR buy a +4 degree woodruff key from vitos.
Of if you bike is heating up past what you believe is normal then I'm going to assume there is a air leak in the motor, leaning out the bike and introducing more heat.
The timing on a blaster is a fixed point. If everything is installed correctly, stator, flywheel, woodruff key, cdi then the timing is a set point. There is no way to change it so there is no need for a timing light as the timing is a fixed point. The only way to adjust the timing is to dremel out the mounting holes and manually rotate the stator then tighten it back down. OR buy a +4 degree woodruff key from vitos.
Of if you bike is heating up past what you believe is normal then I'm going to assume there is a air leak in the motor, leaning out the bike and introducing more heat.
Older 2 strokes had a mechanical advance. If you have no way to advance or retard the timing to run enough timing for power you won't be able to kick it over without it kicking back. The CDI is supposed to retard at low RPM and allows it to advance higher in the revs. Right now I have advanced it at the stator plate about 8deg. With this it runs stronger with no ping but still runs hot. I've done everything else and the timing light was to verify what I have thought for a while.
Here's an earlier post listing the advance curve.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/ignition-curve.51494/#post-648263
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/ignition-curve.51494/#post-648263
