help! my blaster wont start

[dust1014]

I did check for warping and everything was right. I did use the correct tensions for the build I printed off a page of the manual online for that. I do not have the ability to leak test I still have to go buy one and my compression tester is junk its from harbor freight. My engine is definitely getting good compression I can tell when I kick it over the new gasket fixed the issue. Im starting to think its my carby...because when I pull the plug its barely even wet at all after I kicked the hell outta it. Where can I get an affordable leak tester???

 

[dust1014]

I did check for warping and everything was right. I did use the correct tensions for the build I printed off a page of the manual online for that. I do not have the ability to leak test I still have to go buy one and my compression tester is junk its from harbor freight. My engine is definitely getting good compression I can tell when I kick it over the new gasket fixed the issue. Im starting to think its my carby...because when I pull the plug its barely even wet at all after I kicked the hell outta it. Where can I get an affordable leak tester???

 

[MercMenace]

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leakdown-testers.55015/

 

[tfaith08]

This is one of the most straightforward and honest new users that I've seen. I like this cat.

Is the engine ported, professionally or not?
What is your compression gauge tube length?

 

[dust1014]

Thanks tfaith08. The engine is ported professionally and the tester tube length is almost two feet long, its way too long. And update guys! I decided to take a look at the stator because I wasnt getting a constantly timed spark and found my woodruff key destroyed! How could I have missed that haha. So I found some woodruff keys laying around and got one that fit and it start! But the engine sounds real tingy now or even clinky...is it the new key doing that? I also noticed it doesnt hit the power band so hard and the response is poor.

 

[tfaith08]

I highly recommend that you don't run it until you fix any and all air leaks. A leaky 2-stroke will destroy itself. It isn't a matter of if, but when.

 

[speedyslyder]

do you have stock exhaust?
are you riding it or breaking it in?powerband?

 

[Blaaster]

If the key was sheared off there is a chance that the tapers in the flywheel have been damaged.

When you tensioned up the flywheel nut to 53ft lbs it may again have sheared allowing the timing to be advanced.

You may need to lap the flywheel to the shaft.

 

[dust1014]

I have a full fmf exhaust and uni air filter. I already broke in the motor, im riding it now. And I dont think I have any leaks it will kick start right up no problem now but ever since I put that other woodruff key in it just seems to be running with missing power...will buying a stock key help? And the shaft and flywheel aren't damaged much, the shaft is fine the flywheel is alil scored by the opening but inside is fine. I think the bolt came loose which caused the issue in the first place. That would cause it right?

 

[Blaaster]

It is important to understand that the key and the nut does not keep the flywheel from spinning.

The key locates the flywheel in the correct position.

The nut is tensioned up and forces the tapers together, the interference fit of the tapers stop the flywheel from spinning.

If the tapers are in poor condition they cannot be forced together enough to be able to resist spinning.

They must be both in good condition!

 

[tbrooks]

Always leaktest after rebuild, twice a year at least, and any time you are having problems. It is so simple and cheap to do and can save you hundreds of $$$

 

[dust1014]

Alright thanks guys huge help! I got the blaster leak tested and my friend said everything is good, since its running like crap I will put new 93 octane fuel in and good 2stroke oil, should I mix it myself or let it mix it for me??? The pump still works I checked

 

[Blaaster]

Leave the injection to do the work.

You may have to prime and bleed it.

Make sure the oil is of the injectable type.

 

[dust1014]

Alright thanks so im looking into tors unit removal, should I buy the removal kit or just disconnect everything?

 

[tfaith08]

I just removed the unit since I was already in the engine and blocked the carb off.

I did it because I like to carry one container of gas (I have 2 different 2-strokes), and because I wanted to clean all the clutter off of it. You can get a block off boot from most hardware store for $.50 or so.

 

[MercMenace]

You can get a block off boot from most hardware store for $.50 or so.

I would like to hear more on this.

 

[tfaith08]

I would like to hear more on this.

The little cap that goes where the tube went into the carb is a common end cap piece that is very common. 9/10 if the place sells lawn care equipment, they have them for sale or have them sitting around in the back. I know we used to at the old place I worked at AND the powersports dealership that I just left.