help! my blaster wont start

dust1014

dust1014

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Apr 28, 2014
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So I just rebuilt my topend yesterday and I did the heat cycles and everything, and today I went to take it for a good longer ride and at the end of the ride I went up a hill in 2nd gear and once I got to the top it kinda sputtered and shut off on me and wont start back up. I believe it still has good compression I will test it for that when I find my kit. It has good spark and im pretty sure its getting fuel as I was riding it when it happened but when I kick it over with the spark plug in it shouldnt the plug come out soaked? I will pull the carb and clean it again but I literally just completely cleaned the carb when I rebuilt the topend. Could be dirty gas though. Anyway when I kick it over sometimes it feels like it snags on a gear or something and I has a rolling sound that I didnt notice before but I dont think I really payed attention before this happened. Anybody have any ideas where I should start? Im going to reclean the carb and go from there. I no the carb is getting fuel.
 
Thanks blaaster, theFloat is set to stock setting, and the carb doesnt really dribble...I can blow into the gas line and fuel comes out the overflows and all that but no dribble other than that. How did I flood the crankcase? And how do I empty it? If its flooded that would explain the different rolling sound right?
 
If you can blow into the fuel line and fuel comes out of the overflow then the needle and seat is allowing excess fuel into the bowl, that too will explain why flooding happens.

Take the plug out, turn the fuel off, drain the carb.

Hold the throttle WOT and kick till your leg is sore.

Put things back and try again.

Fix the needle and seat.
 
when i went up a hill on a xr100 it would do the same thing lol ,check that carb out,check to make sure your gas cap is ventilating properly to you can unscrew it a lilttle or check for constant fuel flow from tank to carb,and i would buy fresh gas especially if you just rebuilt it..:)
 
Alright so plug out kick it out for like an hour straight and drain carb. To fix the seat and needle should I just buy a new needle and clean the seat? And as for the gas tank I will try to empty the tank through the line into a can to check that. Thanks guys if it works out I will post it up tomorrow!
 
Alright guys so heres the scoop, I found my compression tester and found that I had only 60psi so it was low compression the whole time. When I took apart the engine I found that my reed valves were bad so thats why it flooded itself or at least thats the only problem I could find as the carb was spottless and float was set right with no holes in it. The low compression was caused by the base gasket so im replacing that and I should be out riding soon!
 
A base gasket will seldom cause low compression, common causes are head gaskets or worn rings.

If the base gasket was leaking it would cause the engine to run hot and destroy the piston and rings.i

I have never known bad reeds to cause flooding, it is caused by carby problems.

If your compression is only 60psi I fear that you will need to replace the piston/rings and hone/bore the cylinder.

Leak test the engine after rebuild and before starting.

Did you check if the needle and seat were actually stopping the flow of fuel when the float was lifted up.
 
What exactly do you mean by rebuild, as there are many different levels, and why was it done in the first place. If you had leak tested a bad gasket should have shown up
 
dust1014 said:
So I just rebuilt my topend yesterday and I did the heat cycles and everything, and today I went to take it for a good longer ride and at the end of the ride I went up a hill in 2nd gear and once I got to the top it kinda sputtered and shut off on me and wont start back up. I believe it still has good compression I will test it for that when I find my kit. It has good spark and im pretty sure its getting fuel as I was riding it when it happened but when I kick it over with the spark plug in it shouldnt the plug come out soaked? I will pull the carb and clean it again but I literally just completely cleaned the carb when I rebuilt the topend. Could be dirty gas though. Anyway when I kick it over sometimes it feels like it snags on a gear or something and I has a rolling sound that I didnt notice before but I dont think I really payed attention before this happened. Anybody have any ideas where I should start? Im going to reclean the carb and go from there. I no the carb is getting fuel.
Click to expand...

Check the reeds and see if they are chipped on the edges.
 
I rebuilt my engine twice recently, first time was becasue the base gasket of the jug was spewing everywhere and you has to push start the quad because of that. I rebuilt it a second time because the rings went bad and I bored the jug and got a new piston and rings and now the base gasket started leaking again...its what I get for buying cheap gaskets. Anyway the cylinder and rings are NOT bad the cylinder is still smooth and the rings are still new. And I did check the carb its fine the needle and seat work like they should. And for the compression check I did hold the throttle WOT thats why I tore it apart and then I found another bad base gasket! And in the process I also found that i'm not constantly getting a spark so im checking all my grounds and connections and yes I have a new sparkplug as well and I already tried it before I checked everything else. So they only issues I found is reed valves and base gasket. I havent found the bad connection yet
 
Oem or cometic gaskets are whats recommended around here. Hopefully you had a good builder b/c the tolerances for the piston in the bore are measured in thousandths of inches
 
Ok so I put it all back together new gaskets and everything checked out fine so first thing I did was a compression check and now I have 70psi...my rings and cylinder were perfect though! And the guy I had bore it out and match a piston to does work for benelli usa so I cant imagine he bored it out wrong. Is there anything else that could be causing my low compression?????
 
Ok so dont trust my compression test readings, I just read that my harbor freight tester is garbage and misreads everything. I will go buy a good tester and get some real readings.
 
Poor assembly.

Bad tester.

Wrong testing procedure.

Did you assemble with lots of oil in cylinder and piston ring grooves?
 
Did you check the cylinder head for warpage.

Did you use the correct tensions for the assembly?

Did you leak test after assembly, that will tell if the head is leaking.

A fresh rebuild may have a low psi, which will increase after heat cycles and break in.
 
Blaaster said:
Did you check the cylinder head for warpage.

Did you use the correct tensions for the assembly?

Did you leak test after assembly, that will tell if the head is leaking.

A fresh rebuild may have a low psi, which will increase after heat cycles and break in.
Click to expand...



What he said ^^


Leak test and make sure it is safe to start. My initial compression test showed 105 PSI. after I did my heat cycles and retorqued. I was at 127 psi.
 
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