HELP! Engine idles high then bogs down
- Thread starter chapapadap
- Start date
If you really cant figure it out maybe take some pics of your engine,carb or take a video and post it on here.It would give people on here a chance to maybe see something your over looking. just a thought
this is only thing you can try to use on head gasket permatex copper gasket spray.Also make sure top of carb is tight they can come loose check it with your hand where throttle cable goes in.Not sure why you have 70psi i dont even think it would start at that low.
what kind of base gasket is that. It is recommended that you use stock or cometic base gaskets because that one you have looks like its made out of paper,and looks like you put red silicon on it.
Im not sure whats going on but i would not put that gasket back on if you put red silicone on it,in my opinion that base gasket should have stuck to the cases when you pulled it off not the bottom of cylinder also looks like top is wet unless you sprayed something on it.In my opinion
make sure your cylinder head is not warped you can research that i did not watch your vid yet cuz i want to show you this first.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=210e2kJrgGI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=210e2kJrgGI
firsty, order a Cometic or OEM base gasket ONLY, and a new head gasket.
throw that construction paper green gasket as far as you can, they're junk and known to cause airleaks.
measure piston to bore clearnce from the bottom, with piston in....
@ 7:20-ish
reassemble with new gaskets, torque head/base nuts to spec,
leakdown test. reapair if leaking
do 3-5 proper heat cycles and retorque head/base nuts after final cool down
leakdown test again.
retest compression.
were the reeds in good shape ?
cracked, lifted, broken reeds will not allow a full psi. compression test.
edit: the vid sounded ok, except for the bog, i do not hear the signs of an airleak, and if it's starting that easily, it should at least rev.
that sounds like TORS, airscrew/pilot jet, reeds, float level or timing out of alignment to me.
check your coil wire too, electrical problems appear as jetting sometimes, idle but not rev as spark shorts out as revs increase
throw that construction paper green gasket as far as you can, they're junk and known to cause airleaks.
measure piston to bore clearnce from the bottom, with piston in....
@ 7:20-ish
reassemble with new gaskets, torque head/base nuts to spec,
leakdown test. reapair if leaking
do 3-5 proper heat cycles and retorque head/base nuts after final cool down
leakdown test again.
retest compression.
were the reeds in good shape ?
cracked, lifted, broken reeds will not allow a full psi. compression test.
edit: the vid sounded ok, except for the bog, i do not hear the signs of an airleak, and if it's starting that easily, it should at least rev.
that sounds like TORS, airscrew/pilot jet, reeds, float level or timing out of alignment to me.
check your coil wire too, electrical problems appear as jetting sometimes, idle but not rev as spark shorts out as revs increase
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I think the tors is removed however the black and yellow wire connector is still connected. I took the oil tank off and premix my fuel. How do i check coil wire and timing? Reeds are brand new.
nope, pull the line and block it with an 1/8" vaccuum cap, it'll suck air thru a dry pump.
and thats a little excessive on the copper rtv on the intake gasket, you sure none got in and holding a reed pedal open ?
use less next time
unplug the tors @ the brain under the hood, i see it still connected at the carb
what airscrew setting ?
needle clip position ?
