hard starting

Flooding will make for hard starting, burping and excessive blue smoke.

An excess of oil in the pipe will make it smoke for a longer period after start up!

Get the float level right before you pull the flywheel off.

When you get it started and up to operating temp, adjust the idle correctly.
If you do not know how to properly adjust idle read the following.

Idle adjusting.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
i will follow your words of wisdom. haha

might as well order a carb kit bein there 13 bucks. and has ben never rebuilt since the day it was born

is there a guide for checking float level?

also when setting idle where would i put the cable adjustment by the thumb?
 
Float level should 20 to 21.5mm on a stock carby.\

Could not get img to load here.
4785-float-height.jpg



Idle is set by either the knob on top of the TORS if you still have it fitted.

Or by an idle screw fitted to the side of the carb, if the TORS has been deleted.

If no idle screw fitted to carbv, by adjusting the slack in the cable at the point where the cable enters the top of the carb.

Do not adjust at thumb throttle.

I could not get an image to load to show how to adjust float, but you can do it externally.

Grab the drain tube that comes from the botton of carb.

Pull it up past the bottom of the float bowl, and with the petcock on crack the drain screw open, and the gas level should be level with the top of the float chamber gasket.
 
Last edited:
well carb rebuild and setting float level didnt do the trick, but seems to run a little snappier

it keeps backfiring when kicking so i will check the stator and flywheel key, and find a way to leak test it.

not sure why im having so many problems with this motor
 
I had the exact same issue with mine,pulled the carb,cleaned it and now it starts 1st kick everytime.
 
Watched a video on float adjustment,it stated to tell if the float is adjusted correctly you can hold it upside down. When you push the float up with your finger about the time it hits the tab the float should be horizontal.
 
Wentzcrazy said:
Watched a video on float adjustment,it stated to tell if the float is adjusted correctly you can hold it upside down. When you push the float up with your finger about the time it hits the tab the float should be horizontal.
Click to expand...

Not quite the correct way, the float adjustment on a stock carby is 20 to 21.5mm.

4785-float-height.jpg
 
ilikeike- ive read this whole post it seems you have started the bike multipule times an have not leak tested it with taken the reads off an all you should have already leaktested before you started back up you could kill your bike starting so many times with a potential air leak...

An did you clean all jets good inside the carb... even the pilot jet an did you do the air screw an choke... you bike takes a bunch of kicks to start... is that on choke?..

An check your timing good... i had a 3 wheeler back fired it was the timing...

An how big is this gap in your reeds bad reeds will cause hard starts an could cause back firing.
 
gb blaster said:
ilikeike- ive read this whole post it seems you have started the bike multipule times an have not leak tested it with taken the reads off an all you should have already leaktested before you started back up you could kill your bike starting so many times with a potential air leak...

An did you clean all jets good inside the carb... even the pilot jet an did you do the air screw an choke... you bike takes a bunch of kicks to start... is that on choke?..

An check your timing good... i had a 3 wheeler back fired it was the timing...

An how big is this gap in your reeds bad reeds will cause hard starts an could cause back firing.
Click to expand...

i am leak testing it today and completely cleaned carb and even rebuilt it. float is in right spot (21mm)

put new reeds in it yesterday so the gap is zero. haha

it runs absolutely perfect when started so unless if its leakin somewhere stupid its electrical

tried multiple spark plugs all right gap. didnt do a plug chop but plug looks healthy color after riding around awhile.
 
iLikeIke said:
didnt do a plug chop but plug looks healthy color after riding around awhile.
Click to expand...

Do not take any notice of the colour of a plug pulled from a motor that has been running around for a while.

It is not a good indication of the state of the jetting, or wether there is an air leak or not.

A plug chop has to be performed in a correct manner, to be able to diagnose correct AFR.

A healthy looking, freshly pulled plug directly after a ride can sometimes point to a lean mix.

If I remember correctly a leak down test has been recommended on one or more occasions, please take heed and perform one before you ride it around again.
 
its sparking but ill check to make sure its sparking everytime it should. heck just replaced all electrical a bit ago

and yes i know im the most talented procrastinator here. lol usually pay more in late fees then the bill

anyhow what i meant by plug is its not some retarded looking thing thats crudded up with oil and looks like a wrinkly old person, but rather looks like a spark plug should
 
Before you go any further and totally stuff up the motor, do a leak down test.

Backfiring and a very clean plug are symptoms of an air leak causing a lean mixture..

The extra heat caused by the lean mix could be cleaning the oil off the plug and fooling you that it has the correct AFR.
 
well got spark nowive replaced every electric part on it and no prevail. even went back to stock electronics. lol it is sparking nicely now but still doesnt like to be kick started. (put on the resistor plug cap)

if i pop start it it runs like a dream. yes i know, pressure test it but i have better things to spend time and money on such as my duster motor.

or ill just ride around pop starting it all day haha o well clutch is slipping bad now so ill inspect that and the crank seal.

i dont get how everything is brand new and still wont kick start. but runs like a champ when pop started. not sure why this motor has given me so much greif haha dam wsm pistons
 
I fear that if you do not leak test it and continue pop starting to ride, you may be digging its grave.

Whatever, it is your money, but if it is not kick starting there must be something amiss.
 
iLikeIke said:
well got spark nowive replaced every electric part on it and no prevail. even went back to stock electronics. lol it is sparking nicely now but still doesnt like to be kick started. (put on the resistor plug cap)

if i pop start it it runs like a dream. yes i know, pressure test it but i have better things to spend time and money on such as my duster motor.

or ill just ride around pop starting it all day haha o well clutch is slipping bad now so ill inspect that and the crank seal.

i dont get how everything is brand new and still wont kick start. but runs like a champ when pop started. not sure why this motor has given me so much greif haha dam wsm pistons
Click to expand...

check that there are no holes or cracks in the aitbox boot, gas lines all good, anf check the petcock inside the take to make sure its not clogged and check the float level.
also it might be spraking at the wrong time. check the key way in the flywheel too. also check to make sure all the wires to the cdi are alll connected correctly and dont wiggle out
 
checked all that quadrider, and all the gaskets, fuel line filter etc is all new soooooo

ha well at least thats what the shop guy is telling me. not taking my blaster to another place to get worked on my trust is gon with dumb lying shop builds. not to say i cant build motors but my last garage was a dirt floor, not the place to build a motor.

the last motor i had built the guy didnt chamfer the ports so naturally an hour down the trail it ate a ring and destroyed everything. i brought it to him and he said "sorry i did not know you had to chamfer the ports" two weeks later his business closed.

off to home depot for some leak testing equipment and if it doesnt leak i really have no idea lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Y
CR85 Blaster Swap
Replies
3
Views
830
Engine Mods and Swaps
YamahaNutz
Y
BlasterOrDeath
Seized 3 new pistons. 1 old one
Replies
5
Views
898
General Support
BlasterOrDeath
BlasterOrDeath
crusty4365
DT200 Swap
Replies
1
Views
1K
Engine Mods and Swaps
Jess brown
J
Gonzo1
06 Blaster hard to start and run away idle
Replies
1
Views
4K
Intake
01blastermaster
0
Miker1st
Blaster Bogs Beyond Idle
Replies
23
Views
5K
Electrical
Miker1st
Miker1st
Top Bottom
Back