06 blaster diddnt have spark, ended up changing my flywheel and stator, got a high output satator from rickys, thinking it was a good thing??....anyways it started right up and ram great for about 2 weeks....now i cant get the theing to make fire, i thought it was the THORS systerm mabie doing something so i think i deleted it correctly, anybody have any ideas on what this could be?
getting tired of this electrical problem!!
- Thread starter nickpipes
- Start date
you have already checked all the connections, right?
maybe a ground wire frayed or got corroded, could be simple.
how about the spark plug, not fouled out?
maybe a ground wire frayed or got corroded, could be simple.
how about the spark plug, not fouled out?
connections are tight, grounds were checked, and its a brand new plug
i was thinking it was the thors, because when i was last riding it, it run like it was allways cold..or the choke was on, (wouldent get rpm's and spuddering)
then it just stopped making spark... i dont know anymore
Always recheck what you fixed if you fix something and it dies again after.
Use a digital multimeter to ohm out the source and pickup coils. Source coil I believe is black/red and black, pickup coil is white/red and black. There should also be continunity of ~1 ohm or so between the black wire and the yellow one on the stator harness.
Source coil is tested at 100 ohms setting on the DMM, and a working reading should be somewhere like... 190-320 ohms (manual says 192-288) but mine reads ~310 and its fine.
Pickup Coil is 10 setting on the DMM and a working reading should be 16-24 ohms.
Also use the DMM to ohm out the ignition coil. Primary coil is tested at the 10 ohm setting. Measure resistance between the orange wire and the chassis ground of the coil. Should be 1.44 - 1.76 (If youre CLOSE to either number its probably fine. My brand new coil itself doesnt ohm out per the book but it works fine). Secondary coil is measured at 1k ohms on the tester. Measure resistance between the spark plug lead and the orange wire on the coil. Should be between 5.28k and 7.92k (again, if youre close, dont fret you dont have to be spot on). You can find the service manual for download on this site somewhere, its helped me a bunch. I was able to test voltage by unplugging the orange wire going to the coil and putting my DMM in AC power test, grounding the black to the chassis, and having a buddy kick it and I was reading ~8 volts on a kick after replacing the stator. Before replacement, Id only get like... 2 volts on a kick.
When I first got my Blaster, I had a wouldnt run/no spark issue and it was my stator. Im intimately familiar with how to test the stupid thing. Hell, just today, I lost my headlight and I ended up finding out the secondary coil had some short in it, I ohmed it out, nothing. Took the flywheel out, removed stator, stuck it on the workbench, found a broken wire, resoldered it, reinstalled it, problem solved.
Most likely either the stator itself has a break in the wires, or its failed (Ive heard of rickys stators doing that recently). Post back if you cant figure it out and your electrical system passes the above troubleshooting steps.
Use a digital multimeter to ohm out the source and pickup coils. Source coil I believe is black/red and black, pickup coil is white/red and black. There should also be continunity of ~1 ohm or so between the black wire and the yellow one on the stator harness.
Source coil is tested at 100 ohms setting on the DMM, and a working reading should be somewhere like... 190-320 ohms (manual says 192-288) but mine reads ~310 and its fine.
Pickup Coil is 10 setting on the DMM and a working reading should be 16-24 ohms.
Also use the DMM to ohm out the ignition coil. Primary coil is tested at the 10 ohm setting. Measure resistance between the orange wire and the chassis ground of the coil. Should be 1.44 - 1.76 (If youre CLOSE to either number its probably fine. My brand new coil itself doesnt ohm out per the book but it works fine). Secondary coil is measured at 1k ohms on the tester. Measure resistance between the spark plug lead and the orange wire on the coil. Should be between 5.28k and 7.92k (again, if youre close, dont fret you dont have to be spot on). You can find the service manual for download on this site somewhere, its helped me a bunch. I was able to test voltage by unplugging the orange wire going to the coil and putting my DMM in AC power test, grounding the black to the chassis, and having a buddy kick it and I was reading ~8 volts on a kick after replacing the stator. Before replacement, Id only get like... 2 volts on a kick.
When I first got my Blaster, I had a wouldnt run/no spark issue and it was my stator. Im intimately familiar with how to test the stupid thing. Hell, just today, I lost my headlight and I ended up finding out the secondary coil had some short in it, I ohmed it out, nothing. Took the flywheel out, removed stator, stuck it on the workbench, found a broken wire, resoldered it, reinstalled it, problem solved.
Most likely either the stator itself has a break in the wires, or its failed (Ive heard of rickys stators doing that recently). Post back if you cant figure it out and your electrical system passes the above troubleshooting steps.
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