Gear oil in the tranny?

For just general riding you can't beat Rotella T by Shell Oil. It's about 9.00 a gallon a walmart. Now I know it's made for trucks, but there are alot of people using it for motorcycles and atv's. Check out the Shell website's forum and look up Rotella T, you'll find that there are alot of Harley riders using it in their bikes. I ran it for about half a season in my boys Blaster and had no problems.
 
ive been useing lucas 10w-30 high performance motorcycle oil since i got my blaster at the begining of the year an havent had any problems yet
 
You cant fix it with the motor together. have to take it all apart. You can get that welded, but you have to have it all apart and clean. a non o-ring chain is fine. i have one and there are no problems. take care of the thing.

if you do not have the rear chain guide all your chain is going to do is fall off. when you jump, or ride rough terain, and the swinger drops all the way down the cahin become really loose and weill just jump right off.

i had an o-ring chain break on me and it cracked the case infront of the sprocket. i Just used JB weld to seal it up. have yet to have a problem. i hade a good size peice missing out of the case.

the top and bottom rollers on the blaster are just to prevent alot of chain slap. there is also a white plastic "roller" on the swingarm (where the long bolt attaches it to the fame" that spins,but that is more to proteck the swingarm.

just make sure you have the rear chain guide. its white and plastic. that is number one, and dont buy stock OEM chain rollers. they are crap. spend the money on some from TM Design or a company like that.

Excellent info, just what I was looking for. many thanks!! I ordered a used rear chain guide ($13.85 shipped) and will get good new rollers too.
JB weld does seem to hold up well on small engines. I had a scrambler for 3 years before I noticed someone had patched a hole in the case below the carb with jb weld.

The one problem I have left is after it warms up the idle gets quite high. I have sprayed the carb and boot with cleaner when running and don't find an air leak.
 
Well, the thing is if I turn the idle down then it wouldn't idle at startup. It idles purrrrfect till you ride it for a few minutes, then up, up, up the idle goes. I don't know what TORS is.
 
I read the DIY and unhooked it but no change. Starts out idling fine for the first 20 minutes then it revs.

I hardly ever use the choke. This thing starts first kick every time.

Once I have been riding for a bit, I pull up to my buddies and pull the clutch and it revs, I have to let the clutch out a bit to bring the idle back down so they can hear me talk.
I am completely stumped.
 
I got my idle squared away. it ended up being something simple.

The only issue I have to figure out now is a small gearbox oil leak. Not a big one but big enough that every day I go out to ride I have to add a little oil to the case. I haven't really looked for the leak yet, but I will let you know.

I got a short brake cable for it too, so i will have to work on that aswell.

Getting my Blasty squared away one day at a time. I:I

btw: TIP: When you have your axle off don't forget to put the cotter pins back in the castle nuts that hold the wheel hubs on. My problem is I get in a hurry because I wanna ride then I forget stuff like cotter pins and later wish I hadn't forgotten!
:"> I:I
 
The screw on cap that the throttle cable goes into was completely unscrewed and so I screwed it tight, then the piece of metal that is supposed to stop it from coming loose wasn't making contact with the thing so I took it off and bent it a little put it back on and whala! no more high revving idle!