First rebuild, need hints on engine internal.
- Thread starter RW34
- Start date
what kinda motor are you looking to build, mild, wild, something inbetween? how much do you have to spend? what kind of riding are you going to be doing? were do you want the most power, low, mid, top end? you have somestuff to answer before anyone can answer your question
First a few questions...
Is this a stock rebuild? Why was the engine apart to begin with? Is there anything left intact? What parts are missing?
As for clutches, most any aftermarket clutch is ok for even a modified blaster so take your pick, whatever you can find cheap is fine. Unless you're going with a ported 240kit, a standard clutch is even ok, although you want to "spring" for the upgraded HD springs. They make the clutch pull a little harder, but increase the clutches grip too. A fine trade-off if you ask me.
Is this a stock rebuild? Why was the engine apart to begin with? Is there anything left intact? What parts are missing?
As for clutches, most any aftermarket clutch is ok for even a modified blaster so take your pick, whatever you can find cheap is fine. Unless you're going with a ported 240kit, a standard clutch is even ok, although you want to "spring" for the upgraded HD springs. They make the clutch pull a little harder, but increase the clutches grip too. A fine trade-off if you ask me.
Looking to go inbetween. Engine Wiesco piston good shape(67.5). Engine was taken apart because guy had 2 gears. I figured while I was that deep into engine, I would replace all bearing, seals, and clutches. Don't know if I should replace basket, installing DPK clutches. Bought ATV for son, don't want to go extreme, but want to build a good, solid machine. Only parts missing are rod and bearing for clutch lever, should be able to pick those up anywhere. I will go ahead and get the HD springs for the clutch, thanks for the tip, went ahead and removed plastic gear for injector pump. Just looking for advice on parts because I haven't looked the pros and cons. Figured advice would be nice. Thanks for taking the time to reply. Looking to put about $400.00 into motor, nothing major. Then I will start with the body.
If you're not trying to go wild, simply get a stock stroke crank to replace it and repair the gears. Most of the other hard parts are about the same for quality. A new basket is only required if the fingers are damaged beyond repair.
I can tell you that not all crank seals are equal and some have been made before with lip defects from the factory. Inspect them very carefully before you install to make sure there isn't a problem in your set.
You don't need to replace any of the transmission bearings or seals unless there is obvious damage to them. They're not under any crankcase pressure and the only load on them is when they are transmitting power from the engine to the chaindrive. Just inspect them carefully for damage and if they're good to go, you're ready to run.
Make sure you buy a crank kit with new crank bearings. If the problem wasn't with the engine itself, only the transmission, you don't HAVE to change the crank bearings but it's so much easier to do them while the bottom is apart than have to tear it back open because the bearings sat without lube long enough to rust the races. You won't necessarily be able to tell by looking. I'm also not saying I'd throw the old bearings out when they come out either. Those bearings are better than no bearings at all. I would take the old bearings and put them on the shelf in a ziplock bag with some motor oil in it just in case.
You don't need to replace any of the transmission bearings or seals unless there is obvious damage to them. They're not under any crankcase pressure and the only load on them is when they are transmitting power from the engine to the chaindrive. Just inspect them carefully for damage and if they're good to go, you're ready to run.
Make sure you buy a crank kit with new crank bearings. If the problem wasn't with the engine itself, only the transmission, you don't HAVE to change the crank bearings but it's so much easier to do them while the bottom is apart than have to tear it back open because the bearings sat without lube long enough to rust the races. You won't necessarily be able to tell by looking. I'm also not saying I'd throw the old bearings out when they come out either. Those bearings are better than no bearings at all. I would take the old bearings and put them on the shelf in a ziplock bag with some motor oil in it just in case.
