Engine wont start...HELP!

That manual is bad-ass..but, still cant get it to start. I pulled off the front cover and saw that the control unit was unplugged. It looked like it has been unplugged for years, but I plugged it in and still nothing. Took the carb apart AGAIN, and checked the float height. It was a little off, fixed it and it still wont start. PISSED OFF.
 
yeah...plenty. I have spark(new plug), gas(which is good), all wires attached, properly adjusted float, gas on, key turned, engine on run, air filter that only has four hours on it, silencer off, and no matter what I do, when I kick it, it sounds exactly the same. ???
 
I know nothing other then check your compression. I think I paid $20 for my compression tester at napa(it might of been on sale) and its a very handy tool when you have a 2 stroke.
 
yeah...plenty. I have spark(new plug), gas(which is good), all wires attached, properly adjusted float, gas on, key turned, engine on run, air filter that only has four hours on it, silencer off, and no matter what I do, when I kick it, it sounds exactly the same. ???

Are you sure the crank case is not flooded, have you checked the new plug for oil. I have flooded mine in the past, I put in a new plug and fouled it on the first kick because I didn't clear the crank case. Try turning the fuel of and taking the plug out and remember to turn kill switch to the off position ( we wouldn't want a fire) and then kick it several times and see if fuel come flying out the spark plug hole.

If it is not flooded then It might be as previously stated a bad ring. the compression test is the best way to tell for sure. If not compression then it could very well be timing. While you still have spark it may not be sparking at the right time. The timing is controlled by the relation of the flywheel(AKA rotor) to the stator pick up. The flywheel is held in place by a woodruff key and the woodruff key has been known to shear letting the flywheel become out of time. But this is usually only a problem soon after the flywheel has been removed and reinstalled, like with a stator repair or a bottom end rebuild.
But hey lets just hope its flooded:">
 
you dont need a compression tester to make sure it has enough pressure to run.
stick your thumb over the hole and have someone kick it, if air seeps through, theres plenty
 
The thumb test is not a good judge for compression, all that will tell you is that there is some compression not how much or if it is enough to run. Even as little as 40psi feels like good pressure on your thumb but would be very difficult if not impossible to start.
But then again If you broke a ring or put a hole in the piston it may be all the testing you need as those conditions would cause little to no compression at all.
 
It WORKS!!!!!!

So, at last test, I plugged in the control unit (which I mentioned that it looked like it had been unplugged for years...) and I adjusted the float to spec (it was two or three MM out)...nothing. So Silent Bob here tells me to check and see if its flooded. I did remember putting in a new plug and then checking spark after installation and noticed that there was a little oil on it. Anyway, I remove the plug stick my finger in the hole, and no oil, but plenty of compression. Then, what the hell, im gonna check for spark again...no spark.

So I disconnect the control unit, and what do you know. Spark. Well sh*t, lets put the plug back in and see what happens. SECOND KICK. F@CK YEAH!
So I dont know if it was the float, or a flooded crankcase but without everyones help, I would be freezing cold and really pissed off. I was already thinking about selling the thing, then 20 minutes fishtailing through the snow snapped me out of that real quick.

THANKS EVERYONE.
 
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