Don't Weld Blasters

kylepotatoes

New Member
Aug 27, 2008
350
8
0
Little Britain, Ontario, Canada
So a little while ago my Blaster was leaking oil. I thought it was because of silicon being used instead of a gasket around the clutch cover. Well i took it all apart and the nut on the crankshaft had came loose and rubbed a hole in the cover. I tried tightening it back on but it striped (I don't think it was even the right bolt). So I got my neighbor to weld it back on with his torches and we only put in a little bit of weld so I could grind it off if I wanted. I got it all back together with an oil block off kit installed and a new (used) cover. It ran fine but it vibrated a little (I never knew anything about the counter balance). So it ran great for a while until one day I was in my drive way and heard some noise and then squeaking, I shut it off cause I figured that weld broke or something. When i finally got around to taking it apart the weld had cracked and the bolt was kinda loose. I took the clutch off so i could get to the balancer gear to turn it so the dots lined up and got the bolt welded again but i got it filled with weld this time. I put it all back together and took it out and it would run but still vibrate just as much but when you go over about 1/4 throttle the thing vibrates like crazy.

I noticed when I was putting it back together the gear that drives the balancer gear would spin freely but I never though about it. I think its supposed to be on a key and maybe that broke?

So I was wondering what you guys think it is and what I should do? I think my options are fixing and welding again, buy a new or used crank, or try to find a blown up engine and use my top end. And sorry for such a long post.
 
I have seen that nut come off before and go right through the clutch cover.I would get a new crank.Not good to weld that nut on even if it is a just a tac weld.It all is supposed to be balanced.Most likely why it vibrates so much.I would get a new crank,nut,seals,bearings,and just do a rebuild.It will save you problems in the long run.Also get a new balancer bearing,they can go and cause case rubbing and vibration.IMO
 
How much will all that cost? I don't want to put a lot of money in it since its not in the greatest condition. And would I be able to use the old bearings and seals since they're fairly new?

Sure you can, especially if you want to do it again a second time. But seriously, I would buy new. Do it right the first time that way you will not have to do it again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kylepotatoes
If the bearings are ok, i'd re-use them if you have to. As far as the seals go, you should definately replace them. You can get aftermarket replacement cranks in the $150 range and seals/gaskets will run you around $60.
 
when i read the title i had a feeling about electrical damage. does anyone know if you weld on the frame, do you have to remove the grounds to the electrical so you dont fry your cdi and stator?
 
I finally got it back together without welding it or buying a new crank. I ended up grinding of the weld and the nut, and then I cleaned out all the threads with a tiny file. I ordered a new nut ($10!) and forced it on and made sure to put loctite on. I tested it yesterday and it runs great! And my hands don't hurt anymore when I get off it from the vibrations.

Now the reason it vibrated so much is because of when it was welded to nut wasn't tight against the gear which allowed the key to slide out just enough that it didn't drive the gear that drives the balancer gear at all. So now it runs great and I appreciate all of your guy's help.
 
Just my luck that on Wednesday I went out for another little ride and ended up crashing. I was going along in 4th and my front tire just touched the soft snow on the side of the trail which pulled the quad in and sent me flying. I'm alright but the rear plastic broke on the right side, the handle bars bent a bit and my grab bar bent way up. It's not that bad of damage but I'm still kinda of mad that it happened on my second ride after fixing it.
 
and you can frankenstein the plastics. just drill holes right on the ends of the cracks so that they don't keep cracking and drill holes on both sides of the crack along the length of it and stitch the holes together w/ zip ties.
 
and you can frankenstein the plastics. just drill holes right on the ends of the cracks so that they don't keep cracking and drill holes on both sides of the crack along the length of it and stitch the holes together w/ zip ties.

yeah that is another way to do it, lol
 
If you look close enogh there already stitched with rivets in the pics.Just do the same.If your not crashing your not riding.
 
From about 6 to 10PM I was out in my garage riveting on the plastic to sheet metal and fixing the bracket. This was the first time I had tried the riveting thing and it seemed to work pretty good but it took a long time because it was such a big area. I had to fix the bracket because it had broke when the other guy hit something and cracked the fender the first time. I'll get a pic tomorrow maybe, it doesn't look super bad.