don't know what I need to fix?!

hunter beem

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Aug 17, 2016
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Ok, I have a 1989 blaster, ive had it for about 3 years now and am really trying to get it fixed.. well about a week ago I replaced my swingarm bearings and bushings and rode my quad for about 2 hours.. I was riding down the road, slamming through gears and all of the sudden it just bogged out.. tried dropping gears to pick up RPM's but wouldn't work.. so it stalled and I let it sit for a minute.. then I kicked it over and it ran fine. But I rode up to the garage and parked it..I checked to see if anything was missing and I seen that there was a hole with nothing in it in my carb.. I think this is the screw (down below) but don't know the name, the picture with no arrow is my carb. What's missing? Please help
 

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Its just a screw to hold the bracket on that holds the carb cap from coming loose. Its not needed. Part 25, 26, 27

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Also this hole with arrow is for the Idle Screw when you install the TORS delete kit. Brick on top of cap cap.

Your bike looks to still have the TORS unit so you are fine with that hole being empty.
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I would check compression first, If it passes then I would clean all pasages and jets in the carb, clean lines and fuel filter, check air filter to make sure its not clogged by mice etc and try again
 
Ok now that that's figured out.. why do you suppose it bogged out like it did? It did have low fuel and the oil to gas ratio was 2x more then it needed to be
 
Also my uncle said that that top screw that holds the bracket on is needed, is that true or a false statement?
 
Replace with new fuel and oil. Are you doing pre-mix? fuel and oil in the fuel tank or putting fuel in the tank and oil in the tank under the rear fender.

The screw and bracket is just a safety thing. I don't have it on my bike as i'm running a aftermarket cap because I did the TORS delete.
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Have you done a Leak test? and when was the engine last rebuilt?
 
Replace with new fuel and oil. Are you doing pre-mix? fuel and oil in the fuel tank or putting fuel in the tank and oil in the tank under the rear fender.

The screw and bracket is just a safety thing. I don't have it on my bike as i'm running a aftermarket cap because I did the TORS delete.
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Have you done a Leak test? and when was the engine last rebuilt?



Ok so no I haven't done a rebuild since I've owned it and no I haven't done a leak test cause I don't even know what that is lol.. and I run pre-mixed gas.. I removed the oil mixer on the rear because it had q big crack in the tank.
 
It would be nice to have it, but i am sure 95% of the blasters out there don't have it.

Do not run your Blaster with the oil ratio like that. It affects your jetting. Too much oil means not enough fuel and you could be dangerously lean on fuel.
 
Ok thanks guys.. I only had the mix like that because I haven't rode it in years and used the oil to lube everything up
 
If the screw isn't needed, how come there is a spring and washer with it then? Just curious
 
If the screw isn't needed, how come there is a spring and washer with it then? Just curious

Part 26 washer/spring is just a Spring washer.
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A ring split at one point and bent into a helical shape. This causes the washer to exert a spring force between the fastener's head and the substrate, which maintains the washer hard against the substrate and the bolt thread hard against the nut or substrate thread, creating more friction and resistance to rotation.
 
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Part 26 washer/spring is just a Spring washer.
spring-washers.jpg


A ring split at one point and bent into a helical shape. This causes the washer to exert a spring force between the fastener's head and the substrate, which maintains the washer hard against the substrate and the bolt thread hard against the nut or substrate thread, creating more friction and resistance to rotation. Applicable standards are ASME B18.21.1, DIN 127B, and United States Military Standard NASM 35338 (formerly MS 35338 and AN-935).[9]

Spring washers are a left hand helix and allow the thread to be tightened in a right hand direction only, i.e. a clockwise direction. When a left hand turning motion is applied, the raised edge bites into the underside of the bolt or nut and the part that it is bolted to, thus resisting turning. Therefore, spring washers are ineffective on left hand threads and hardened surfaces. Also, they are not to be used in conjunction with a flat washer under the spring washer, as this isolates the spring washer from biting into the component that will resist turning. Where a flat washer is required to span a large hole in a component, a nyloc nut (nylon insert) must be used.

The use and effectiveness of spring lock washers has been in debate of late,[when?] with some publications[who?] advising against their use on the grounds that, when tight, the washer is flat against the substrate and gives no more resistance to rotation than a normal washer at the same torque. NASA researchers have gone as far as to say "In summary, a lockwasher of this type is useless for locking."[10][11] However, a spring washer will continue to hold the bolt against the substrate and maintain friction when loosened slightly, whereas a plain washer will not.


Thanks for clearing that up for me lol
 
How do I tell if my TORS is working?
You can't really unless your throttle slide sticks. However , you can tell when it malfunctions because the engine won't rev up, won't make enough power to ride home :( Luckily you can unplug the "brain" under the hood, little box with three wires :D
 
You can't really unless your throttle slide sticks. However , you can tell when it malfunctions because the engine won't rev up, won't make enough power to ride home :( Luckily you can unplug the "brain" under the hood, little box with three wires :D


Ok thank you