Just pickex up a 06 blaster that was siezed up took top end off and piston skirt broke on the exhaust side i looked at the cylinder wall it looks really clean no digs or anything in it can i just replace piston and rings heres pictures
Do i need a rebore??????
- Thread starter Brennanharpster
- Start date
By the time a piston wears enough to slap around and break , you have to think that the cylinder isn't in the best shape.
With the time and $$$ you will have in it, another 40-60$$$ to have a perfect engine is a wise investment.
Reason I mention time is because you have to split the cases to clean the piston fragments out. And no, you can't just flush them out.
With the time and $$$ you will have in it, another 40-60$$$ to have a perfect engine is a wise investment.
Reason I mention time is because you have to split the cases to clean the piston fragments out. And no, you can't just flush them out.
Easy peasy !!
Flywheel puller, + harmonic balancer puller, a penny or rag to hold gears to loosen nuts.
Clymers Repair Manual and or KOR vids on Utube.
Flywheel puller, + harmonic balancer puller, a penny or rag to hold gears to loosen nuts.
Clymers Repair Manual and or KOR vids on Utube.
Cool i thought it was real hard and i needed to buy a bunch of tools how do i tell if the crank is still good
I was debating on fluahing@it out and putting a cheap amazon kit on it with the new cylinder and then start saving to rebuild top and bottom end
Why spend the money on those crap cylinders? When you can practically bore/hone yours and get a piston for the same price. Don't flush the bottom end, you have to split it. Easy task with the right tools.
What we have here is perfect recipe for a ticking time bomb.
I wouldn't do this on a flipper. Wouldn't want it to grenade before I got rid of it. I'll bet a buck it wouldn't make it through the heat cycles.
^^^ As said above, split the cases. It's not hard and you have access to all the help you could ever need (info wise) right here on the forum. Flushing it out may get you by, but it only takes one lil fragment to be left behind that can do complete destruction.
Don't even waste your time or $ on one of those cheap e bay kits..
Don't even waste your time or $ on one of those cheap e bay kits..
Thanks everyone for the info you have instilled the confidence in me to split it and send to summit for bore how do i check botton end to make sure its good thanks again for all the replys
You will need a feeler gauge, there pretty cheap and always good to have (checking spark plug gap for instance). You will need to measure the side to side play and see if is within spec. Any up/down play on the big end bearing (the bearing between the rod and crank webs) than it will need to be replaced.
BTW; have you downloaded the free manual yet ? The manual will give you the specs on the crank and show you what tools to use and how to use them.
BTW; have you downloaded the free manual yet ? The manual will give you the specs on the crank and show you what tools to use and how to use them.
Yes very bad idea on those ebay cylinder..personal experience, no good at all. Call ken and he will take care of you !
Well everyone I decided to go against talk advice and buy a ebay cylinder kit. I sent the old cylinder out and am having it ported, I'm ordering new case seals, hot rod crank and everything else to do a complete rebuild I got the ebay kit for now because I didn't want to spend the time splitting the case and not replacing everything. So I flushed it out turned it upside down blew it out and got it the best I could so I gaff something to ride in the mean time. I got it back together and it starts up and sounds great after a couple heat cycles it started first kick when it was cold. Only problem I'm having bore is my clutch is stuck, it won't disengage I hold it in kick it in gear and it jerks and stalls and ideas could it be stuck from sitting so long?
