Did it pass?
- Thread starter Fast6hand
- Start date
It certainly sounds like that the crank is out of true,.
Do you know if the engine has ever been hydro locked.
Do you know if the engine has ever been hydro locked.
When I rebuilt the motor I used all new OEM seals and bearings. If I replace the seals again is the crank going to do it to them to? And the crank was OEM and rebuilt.
No I don't know. All I know is when I rebuilt it cylinder was bored and honed, along with getting the crank rebuilt. I did have to replace left side case due to original being destroyed by chain with previous owner. I'm not sure where to go from here.
Is there any wear on the shaft directly under where the seal sits?
With the flywheel in position does the flywheel run out of true?
With the flywheel in position does the flywheel run out of true?
I don't remember there being wear. I did put my flywheel on and checked for trueness. It's goes up and down slightly, I mean slightly. So small I can barely tell. I used loctite on outside of seal and PC seal grease on inner when installed. I don't think there's anyway around it.
If you can SEE the flywheel going up and down, either the flywheel is bent or the crank is waaaaaaaay out of tru. The best test would be to put a dial indicator on the crank taper and check the runout. If you don't have a dial indicator, any machine shop can do this for you. If you have the flywheel off, it should only take them a few minutes. Then you will know for sure if you need to split the cases.
What's the "or" encompass? Lol
That sucks, man. I know EXACTLY how you feel. I rebuild an SR20DET for a friend that had a lightened and balanced crank. I mean a full build, nearly 11k in the long block. The shop claimed it was lightened and balanced, and it was actually both to be honest, but while running, the damper was wobbling. While against a file, it showed marks only on one side, but it purred like an electric motor. They lightened and balanced a wobbler.
But what can you do? I'd make something that I could screw a long bolt into that mounted onto the engine. I'd put a bit of lipstick on the bolt, too. Every few revolutions, screw it in 1/8 turn or less until it rubs. If it gets it only on one side, your fears are confirmed.
Whats wrong with using a dial indicator, you can buy a setup very reasonably from summit racing, they have nice tools for the at home DIY guy that wont break the bank
Actually I took a piece of copper and wrapped it around one of my stator bolts and screwed it in. Put the piece of copper wire on the tapered area just before the seal and had my wife slowly kick it. No wobble at all. It was perfect. All in gonna do is replace the stator seal and move on.
I think so I drained my gearbox and measured the fluid. It was just shy of 650ml. I'm thinking the rest is in the gearbox on the gears and what not. That tells me that seal is ok. Bike smokes a bit on start up but once warm it's fine which is normal. I also found a small tear on intake boot. I had an extra one so replaced it.
What if slightly more than 650ml of oil was put in, or the gearbox was not completely drained before the correct amount was added.
I would prefer to do a leak test to prove that the seal is good, you get no second chances with a leaky seal, if oil can get through, so can air!
I'm gonna replace the stator side first. Then do a leak down. If it passes then awesome. Checking the right side means I have to replace a 10 dollar gasket. Which is worth it if it is leaking. However, if it passes and I don't have to open that side up then I can save a few bucks. If it doesn't pass then my investigation will proceed to that seal. 20-30 ml of oil can be sitting in that case. When I did my rebuild there was all kinds of oil in the knooks and crannies. Especially sitting in the bottom near the drain hole.
Often folks do not realise that a lot of oil lurks in the box unless the oil is hot and flows out freely,
Update: Replaced stator side seal and held pressure. Perfect. Hope this one works. There was a little bit of pitting happening on the crank. Hope this isn't a reoccurring problem. Put a ton of PC seal grease on the inner on loctite on the outer. Hope it holds.
