crank removel?

JWjite

New Member
Sep 7, 2011
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Melbourne Florida
I am trying not to hit this thing with a hammer becouse I believe the crank is still good. I have the motor seperated and the crank is stuck in the left halve of the case does anyone know how to get it out. Also why would the shift star be welded onto the shift drum? I have a busted left side case I was going to have fixed and the shift star is welded to the drum so I cant remove it please help.
 
you need a 2 jaw puller to remove the crank, long bolts into where the 2 stator bolts in, then push on the end of the crank with the center pin of the puller to push it out

you'll also need a tusk crank puller to re-install it, about $75 on rocky mountain atv, or ebay

and the whole "shift shaft" pulls out that clutch side with the shift star attached

heres the first vid i found, they use a 3 jaw puller bolted to the cases, i used a 2 jaw bolted to the stator journels

 
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Is that a blaster motor in the video it looks a bit bigger. I just ordered the crank puller/installer for 56.50 delivered. I think when ken said I would need a harmonic balancer puller he said I could use that to push the crank out. Thanks for the info AWK I got the drum out but the tranny didnt come out in one piece like the video so I hope there is a vid for how it goes back together.
 
Is that a blaster motor in the video it looks a bit bigger. I just ordered the crank puller/installer for 56.50 delivered. I think when ken said I would need a harmonic balancer puller he said I could use that to push the crank out. Thanks for the info AWK I got the drum out but the tranny didnt come out in one piece like the video so I hope there is a vid for how it goes back together.

yep, harmonic puller, $15 on ebay or harbor freight store, and also may be able to borrow one for a returnable deposit at any autozone/advanced auto stores

and that was my big worries on the first and only bottom end i did, getting the tranny back together correctly
keep searching youtube, for 2 stroke tranny install ???
that one i posted above was a 3 part bottom end rebuild, double click the vid above, it'll take you to youtube, then watch the other parts

or search.....especially rockymountainatv, and possibly ken ooconnors channels

and no that wasnt a blaster botoom end in the vid, prolly cr 250
but basically the same procedure
 
best purchase i ever made for the blaster was the clymers manual. and the 03+ blasters have a welded shift star. they had a tendency to fall off on the earlier years.
 
OK, i was like why is this thing welded? I am to broke to pay a pro to do this I think once I find a good video to watch I should be fine. My plan is to have ken do the top end for me once I assemble the bottom end. I have a harmonic puller but the bolts are to short by like one inch so I will go to ace harware for longer bolts or I will weld up a puller like in the video. I also noticed the harmonic puller is not quite rite for this the bolt holes dont line up.
 
OK, i was like why is this thing welded? I am to broke to pay a pro to do this I think once I find a good video to watch I should be fine. My plan is to have ken do the top end for me once I assemble the bottom end. I have a harmonic puller but the bolts are to short by like one inch so I will go to ace harware for longer bolts or I will weld up a puller like in the video. I also noticed the harmonic puller is not quite rite for this the bolt holes dont line up.

ace is the place for bolts
and thats why i used a 2 jaw puller and the stator journels, the 3 jaw i had access too didnt line up, and thats why the tusk one in the vid has moveable arms

don't forget about the micro fische detailed schematics of everything on bikebandit.com

and if you don't already have the manual, here it is, the 03 supplement for this is on here somewhere, only differences are external..... some wiring, tors, hydro barkes, parking brake system
internal engine is the same

http://www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf