clutch trouble

dalt582

New Member
May 2, 2014
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I have a 2000 blaster. The clutch won't disengage. The cable is good and the arm on the outside of the case is moving. Would it be the whole basket?
 
either it wont dis engage or it is slipping cuz it is toast..:) could be the plates are sticking to basket,but a clutch is cheap buy a new one:)
 
Is there much slack in the cable?

Have you been revving it with the clutch pulled in, if so you could have melted the little ball bearing between the rods.
 
May be badly grooved basket. Might be able to salvage it by filing the fingers. If you have to file both sides , you will get some life out of it, but the excess clearance will accelerate wear due to increased movement ot the fiber discs.
 
Has it been sitting awhile or been awhile since the oil was changed? Cause its pretty common to have all the clutch plates stuck together, one of mine had that issue when i bought it, had to change clutch cause if it sat for a week they were stuck again
 
classic symptoms of the ball welded to the internal rod.
had you been holding the clutch in too long at high speeds/rpms ?

time to open the clutch cover and remove the pressure plate by removing the screws holding the springs.
that'll allow the pressure plate and rod to pull off, watch for the ball to roll out if it's not welded to the end of the rod ?
 
classic symptoms of the ball welded to the internal rod.
had you been holding the clutch in too long at high speeds/rpms ?

Which leads me to wonder just how many balls are inserted without a liberal coating of white Lithium grease?

Chassis or bearing grease will not cut rubber here, White Lithium (Lithium Soap) is high melting point/high temperature and is the recommended grease for the clutch ball application.

If one is going to be working the clutch a lot at high revs (which is the norm when riding aggressively) White Lithium grease must be used to inhibit welding of the ball to a clutch rod.
 
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classic symptoms of the ball welded to the internal rod.
had you been holding the clutch in too long at high speeds/rpms ?

Which leads me to wonder just how many balls are inserted without a liberal coating of white Lithium grease?

Chassis or bearing grease will not cut rubber here, White Lithium (Lithium Soap) is high melting point/high temperature and is the recommended grease for the clutch ball application.

If one is going to be working the clutch a lot at high revs (which is the norm when riding aggressively) White Lithium grease must be used toOk inhibit welding of the ball to a clutch rod.
No I just bout It from a guy the throttle cable is broke but it started so I got it then got home an tried the clutch an it wouldn't dis ingage the cable is good the arm moves an there is presser. I have a clutch basket from my old blaster I'm gana try that if not I'm going to put a worrier motor on the frame. For my wife she can't ride a 2stroke
 
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