Clutch adjustment

[ken cunningham]

2000 blaster,

I just put on a new clutch cable, the other one was holding on by a thread. I figured i would be fine with a new cable since the old one was falling apart and i was experiencing clutch drag. I just purchased this about a month ago, so i have no experience working on it. So i put the new clutch cable on and with the cable adjusted all the way out it still wants to turn the motor when you push it. I have read the service manual and i believe that i understand how to adjust the clutch. When i went to drain the trans oil the head of the drain bolt was in pretty bad shape ( i bet you can tell where this is going ) so i had to end up using a socket for rounded nuts, but that darn bolt is in there good. All it did was rip the head of the bolt up.

So i figure ill just catch the oil when i pull the cover to adjust the clutch. I just would like some tips for things to watch out for. Like will i need something to hold the clutch when i loosen and tighten the nut? Allso , what do you think are the chances of being able to reuse the gaskets that are on there now. I have never been into a atv motor so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ken

 

[Blaaster]

Although not recommended it is possible to re-use the gasket provided it is not torn.

Chances are the wrong viscosity oil is in there, or old gummy oil, causing the plates to grab.

Replace the oil with plain 10w30 engine oil no friction modifiers, or Auto trans fluid type F.

You should wash the friction plates and soak them in your choice of oil before re-assembly.

You should need no special tools unless you are taking the clutch basket off.

 

[ken cunningham]

The way my luck seems to be running , the gaskets probably will rip. So ill get online a buy some. Thanks

 

[Blaner]

ok first up, welcome! im sure your current status of ATV motor ignorance will soon change as a result of the wealth of info on this site!

Blaaster is right, use Automatic Tranmission oil, type F. As for the drain plug, you cna use a replacement "normal" bolt but they will not have the magnetic tip as the drain plugs have. Id suggest getting a new one from Ebay or the agents.

I take it you have a manual and that you know you have to adjust the push rod in the center of the clutch basket to adjust the clutch cablke beyond the scope of the cable?

Be careful of the kick starter, they can be tricky to take loose and put back. Ive found the best way is to chock the kicker with a block of wood against the frame and loosen the nut. Do not let the kicker turn with the spanner or this will twist and damage the return spring inside, so chock it, and crack it lose.

Then, remove the kicker arm, whip off the foot peg, and remove the clutch cover. I like to leave the kicker shaft and mechanism in place in the motor.

Do what you have to do. When assembling, I prefer to locate the kicker spring in the locator hole (SEE MANUAL) and then put the clutch cover on sliding the kicker through the cover.

 

[ken cunningham]

This is what i got from reading that section. I loosen the nut then push the clutch lever forward and adjust the rod ( which the nut is on ) untill the clutch lever lines up with the raised portion on the engine case.

I do have to take the oil injector pump off too, right? I all ready bought a clutch cover gasket, but am having trouble finding the gasket for the pump cover. I found the diagram for the pump on cheapcycleparts and it shows two gaskets for the pump, should i buy both of those allso. Thanks for the help.

The blaster very well may have the wrong type or too much oil in it, but i dont think i can get the oil plug out becuase it just rips metal off the head of the bolt.

 

[Blaaster]

Some people drain the oil by just loosening the cover and letting the oil drain out, and then re-tightnen.

I don't like to use this method as some of the collection of crap in the bottom of the case can get between the gasket and case, and cause it to leak.

 

[Blaner]

use a vice grip to get that plug out, failing that try a cold chisel and a hammer. that always works.

As for the oil pump, you dont need to take it off, just give yourself slack on the pipes, or disconnect the pipes and disengaged the white plastic gear when you removed the case, it will naturally disengaged but just be aware of it

 

[ken cunningham]

Thanks for the help everyone. I tore into it and made the adjustment, slapped it back together she works fine now. I still dont know what im doing, but it turned out ok, lol.

 

[slickerthanyou]

Thanks for the help everyone. I tore into it and made the adjustment, slapped it back together she works fine now. I still dont know what im doing, but it turned out ok, lol.

That is sig worthy! I:I At least you took the advice and seem to have common sense! There now ya have a green dot!

 

[Blaner]

haha common (not so common) sense is all you really need!

Have some green too for your efforts

 

[Larry's Shee]

Be aware that sometimes even with a perfectly adjusted clutch, it may still drag from thick oil or just cold engine.

 

[ken cunningham]

One thing i would like to add. When i adjusted the rod, the clutch arm still wouldnt come all the way back to the raised portion of the engine block. It was better, but im guessing 7 degrees off. Does this indicate something that is worn?

Hope everyone has a safe and happy Easter, Peace, Ken

 

[slickerthanyou]

One thing i would like to add. When i adjusted the rod, the clutch arm still wouldnt come all the way back to the raised portion of the engine block. It was better, but im guessing 7 degrees off. Does this indicate something that is worn?

Hope everyone has a safe and happy Easter, Peace, Ken

Make sure the cable is not attached when you do this! If you still cannot make adjustment you may need to replace the clutch arm #23 as I have seen them wear to the point of replacement. Also if you have installed new plates then you also had the pressure plate off and may have lost the little ball bearing #21 in the diagram below.