I hope this is in the right area. I have a 2006 blaster I just aquired that needed a clutch. I took it apart today but I took the nut off that holds the clutch actuator rod to the inner clutch cap. Now I can not get the rod out of the motor. Is there a trick to getting it out or should it just slide out. I tried unscrewing it and pulling and prying it out but dont want to break it. I did a search but didnt find much. I wached the clutch assembly vid on you tube but it skips that part. My search might have turned up more if I new the proper terminology. I did however read about the infamous ball behind the rod that alot of people lose and that it can "weld" it self to the rod. I havent messed with a clutch in 15 years so I am a lil rusty.
Clutch actuator rod
- Thread starter lofosho97
- Start date
ok the way this works is there is the threaded rod you speak of then a ball bearing then another non threaded, longer rod behind the ball, that the clutch actuator pushes. what has happened is that someone has drifted a long way at a pretty good speed with the clutch pulled in. now the ball and rods have welded into one piece. try tapping inward on the rod with a small hammer to see if it will break free. sometimes they will. you will need to order at least those two rods and a ball bearing. rockymountian atv carries them in stock. about 25 bux total with shipping. if they do not break free the only real way to get them out is to split the cases and drive them out of the shaft from the actuator side. Sometimes they will not come out at all and you have to replace the shaft through the tranny. Good luck to ya
also i meant to mention... if you get that rod out you still need to get the ball and other rod out too. once they are all out and you push the new ones in... you should have a long small magnet to go into the clutch actuator hole and get the bits that push out if there are any. the clutch actuator will lift right out if you remove the cable from it, unhook the spring from the case and lift it straight out. you also may be able to push on the inner rod down through the hole for the actuator. just be EXTREMELY careful to not pry against things very hard at all
I also forgot to mention that one of the ears has broken off of the clutch basket. Not completley just one leg at the top of the ear. Where it looks like a U. Would this be ok to reuse? Everything looks like it would still function correctly with it missing. Everything looked clean and there wasnt any metal shavings in the oil but I didnt find the broken peice. I figured the last person broke it putting the clutch baack in or heard it making a noise and pulled the clutch cover and found it.
well I got it out but cant get the ball and 2nd half of the rod out. And to top it all off something in the case is keeping the crank from turning.It sounds like a small peice of metal lodged somewhere. I guess fate just wants me to crack the case.When I got it it kicked over fine and had good compression. I just dont know what it could be.
yeah sounds like case splitting time , My parts blasty I bought had a fried top end and piston skirt broke off , I tore mine down just to be on the safe side when it comes to air leaks and bearings !!
doesn't take very much in the case to stop the crank. very tiny clearances down there, also crank stopping means cases breaking in most cases, unfortunatley
you sure it's the crank hitting something and just not something in the clutch cover area. well if you have the clutch basket on still
Thats not good. Whats the condition of the magnets inside of the flywheel now? Also look at the stator pick ups. They most likely rubbed and did damage to each other. Also I have a clutch ball and a flywheel for sale if interested.
The magnets are still whole just a little shaved off the back where it attached to the flywheel itself. Not sure if they will still work or not. The stator pickups still look good but I didnt really spend alot of time looking at them. My neighbor came over and wanted me to tinker with his sons go kart and got me side tracked. If it is fubar what do you want for your flywheel?
More than likely there welded together and may require the cases to be split to remove all parts
$25 shipped for a good flywheel. Add $2 and ill ship you a clutch ball bearing too!
Clean all them shaving off, lap the flywheel with the crank end, clean off, install woodruff key, install flywheel washer- apply blue locktight to threads before you put nut on, Install to proper torque of 53Ft/lbs or 73nm . Pull plug (to aid in rotation) rotate assembly, check for contact points. Should not rub or touch anything.
No need for Loctite on the threads, the flywheel is held on by the interference fit of the tapers.
Loctite or any other fluid or lubricant fools the tension wrench.
Loctite or any other fluid or lubricant fools the tension wrench.
