Carburator/TORS problem I think? Help needed

Nick28

New Member
Mar 20, 2012
9
0
0
I have a 1999 Blaster. I have put alot into it since I got it. I put a new piston, ring, reeds, air filter and sparkplug. It was running great untill it acted like it had fouled a plug. turned out it was the TORS. I unhooked the wiring harness at the TORS brain and it started right up. Shortly after it started to run kinda ruff. It runs good when im on the throttle in open feilds but in the woods it sounds terrible and dosent have much power. I have taken apart and cleaned what I could in the carb but no difference. I have tried ajusting the fuel/air but nothing. It almost sounds like a spark issue. When I looked behind the reeds there was black deposit. I cleaned that but still the same result. The bike starts right up and idles fine. In neutral u can rev it fine but from off the line its ruff untill you get up to speed and rpms. If you let off the throttle while your riding and then get back on it it almosts sounds like theres no spark, boggs down untill you get back to where you backed off on the throttle. Im not sure if this is an issue with the carb or is there more to the TORS that will cause this. I picked up some chem dip and was thinking of soaking the carb to clean some of the places in the carb you cant see or get to. Im not sure what to do. I dont wanta ride it running this way. I feel its going to cause more damange. I was thinking of a rebuild kit for the carb but everything looks ok inside. Should I mabe look for an aftermarket carb? Does anyone have an idea as to what is the problem?
 
Yuuuup. Do a compression and leak down test first to see the condition of your motor then do a good air filter then carb cleaning.
 
Thanks. I will try the leak down test. I dont think thats the issue because I just replaced the piston and ring and also had the motor split and the crank and rod replaced. the bike starts right up on the first kick but I will try that anyway. I just borrowed a carb from a friend w a blaster and plan on switching them out to see if thats the problem. Thanks for the help.
 
Thanks. I will try the leak down test. I dont think thats the issue because I just replaced the piston and ring and also had the motor split and the crank and rod replaced. the bike starts right up on the first kick but I will try that anyway. I just borrowed a carb from a friend w a blaster and plan on switching them out to see if thats the problem. Thanks for the help.

That's even more reason to do a leak down test. You want to do a leak down test anytime you have the motor apart.
 
Thanks. I will try the leak down test. I dont think thats the issue because I just replaced the piston and ring and also had the motor split and the crank and rod replaced. .

thats exactly when a leakdown test should be performed, anytime you open up the motor, intake ect.

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-parts-151/leak-down-tester-43284/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/videos-how-perform-air-leakdown-test-31464/

is the brass washer under the main jet???
what needle clip setting is it on ???
did you remove the pilot jet for cleaning and the airscrew passage with carb cleaner and compressed air ??
are the floats at the correct height ...20-21.5mm ???

might be electrical too ??? ground at the coil good/bare frame ??
try your buddies coil/plug wire
 
ok. is the leak down test the same as a compression test? Im not sure how to determine the setting prevesly asked. Im not real filmiar w the carb. when i cleaned it I just opened up the bowl and cleaned what i could. I did see cleaner come out of all the holes I shot it in. Not sure where the main jet is to look for the washer. Im goin to try my friends carb, make sure I have a good ground and make sure the hoses from the oiler I removed are sealed off. I read that could also cause that. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for all the help
 
pull the oil injector completely off and cap it off you can find one on e-bay also put a cap on the nipple on the carb where the oil line was . pilot jet big one they can clog easy also replace the needle and seat ie buy a 12 doller carb rebuilt kit e-bay and yes dip the carb and blow out with compresser
 
Is this a stock motor, like with no pipe , no mods, airbox lid on, nothing changed from stock.

What oil are you using and at what ratio, 32:1 is the norm.

What is the main jet size, you can find it by removing the carby bowl, it is the lowest jet in the assembly.
 
It's borded out 30 over. I run 32:1, f&f pipes, no air box lid and not sure what the jets are. How do I determine that? I did try my friends carb but it was sitting for a while and when i hooked it up it leaked gas out the over flow. It was worse off than the one i had. i have the carb soaking now. I'll see what happen's.
 
carb.png


Number 11 is your main jet, it is right in the center of the bowl, the first thing you will see when you open up the carb.
Number 13 is your pilot it affects your bike at idle. It is a little harder to find it is down inside of a opening on the bottom of the carb, next to your main jet.
Your main #11 needs to be much bigger than the stock 230 if you are running an aftermarket pipe and no airbox cover. Just guessing but somewhere near a 290 may be in order. The size of the jet is stamped in the top of it in very tiny numbers.
 
I think I found the problem. There was a wire harness from the throttle that i didnt unhook. i unhooked it and it runs great but my head lights dont work. not sure if that caused that or i just noticed it.