Back in the spring I had my top-end bored and port job done that favors LOTS of torque. I proceeded to rebuild the top-end and break it in. My other mods include a K&N air filter, drilled holes in the air box lid, and an FMF Fatty with the power core II silencer. Not exactly sure what main jet I had in it at the time, but i would guess its not much more than the stock 230. After about ten hours of riding it overheated on me and slowly died...no seize, but the piston swelled up some and after about 30 minutes it cranked up fine again. After the fact it hit me that i must have been running lean since i got the new mod (port job) but did no tuning on the carb. When it had overheated on me i had been running it hard for about an hour. Now my question is, how likely is it that i did a substantial amount of damage to my top-end? And My second question is what brand should i go with for a carb rebuild kit? Im leaking gas and want to get some QUALITY seals and replacement jets. Once I get that i will be doing the tuning on it and plan to read up on the posts here about it, but if you would like, tell me what you think i will need for my carb set-up. Live in west Tennessee.
Carb and Top-End Questions
- Thread starter ebrown002
- Start date
your lack of changing the main jet for the pipe, and port work, and/or failure to do a leakdown test is what fried your motor
a compression test may reveal no damage, but i doubt it.
i'd suggest pulling the top end to inspect the piston and cylinder
upon your impending rebuild, (just my opinion)
use only factory or cometic gaskets
perform a leakdown test upon reassembly (slickerthanyou sales them)
do the required heat cycles, then retorque the head and cylinder base bolts
start with a 300 main jet, and do plug chops to confirm lean or rich jetting for your particular mods and regional elevation
your leaking fuel may be cured by a float adjustment ????
i like the "moose" rebuild kits, < but will only include a stock 230 main jet
heres some excellent reading to avoid repeat offenses.................
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/videos-how-perform-air-leakdown-test-31464/
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-...t-done-after-top-end-rebuild-4399/index3.html
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-...ything-you-need-know-most-useful-posts-28478/
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
a compression test may reveal no damage, but i doubt it.
i'd suggest pulling the top end to inspect the piston and cylinder
upon your impending rebuild, (just my opinion)
use only factory or cometic gaskets
perform a leakdown test upon reassembly (slickerthanyou sales them)
do the required heat cycles, then retorque the head and cylinder base bolts
start with a 300 main jet, and do plug chops to confirm lean or rich jetting for your particular mods and regional elevation
your leaking fuel may be cured by a float adjustment ????
i like the "moose" rebuild kits, < but will only include a stock 230 main jet
heres some excellent reading to avoid repeat offenses.................
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/videos-how-perform-air-leakdown-test-31464/
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-...t-done-after-top-end-rebuild-4399/index3.html
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-...ything-you-need-know-most-useful-posts-28478/
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
Any scores to the cylinder is too much, scuffs and alum deposits may hone out.
The piston and rings should be replaced if it has been fried.
The crown and ring lands would have suffered heaps of stress trying to move the rings in the cylinder.
There will possibly be a little, or maybe lots, of the piston sticking to the cylinder wall, and the piston may be now undersize.
The piston and rings should be replaced if it has been fried.
The crown and ring lands would have suffered heaps of stress trying to move the rings in the cylinder.
There will possibly be a little, or maybe lots, of the piston sticking to the cylinder wall, and the piston may be now undersize.
do not run it till you inspect for damage, i'd try a compression test first, 10 good kicks with throttle wide open, report to us with the results
then if needed pull the top end to visually inspect it,
new head and base gaskets will be needed for reassembly, even if you don't need work done
then we'll procede with jetting advice that will get you close enuf for break-in
then if needed pull the top end to visually inspect it,
new head and base gaskets will be needed for reassembly, even if you don't need work done
then we'll procede with jetting advice that will get you close enuf for break-in
Carb prolly just needs a cleaning/adjustment. Might not need a full rebuild kit.
Rejet vid.
Rejet vid.
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ok, hey that small plastic piece that sits beyween the carb and the main jet...what does it do? It is not very difficult for this piece to come out of position. Mine will slide right over the main jet and doesnt seem to be worn in any way. Is this normal and is the piece very important? And it will be about a week and a half b4 i can do any work to the bike. I am a college student and have a pretty rough round of final exams coming up next week. Thanks for the vids! didnt know you could adjust the float valve! So simple it makes me feel like an idiot!
That plastic thingy is a slosh baffle, and helps keep fuel to the base of the main jet on wild excurcions. As the name implies it helps to stop the fuel sloshing about in the float bowl.
The level of the float is extremly important.
The level of the float is extremly important.
That piece is important! I want to say its called a splash gaurd. And yes just slips over the main.
Definatly need to go further the rings and piston could be shot.
Hard to say about the bore, cant see any scores in the pics so you may get away with a hone on the jug.
If it cleans up with a light hone it may still be within specs.
Would have to be honed with a bar stone hone, not a bubble hone.
A bubble hone would follow the contors and give a false reading as the abrasives would follow the contors, fooling you into thinking that the bore is uniform..
Hard to say about the bore, cant see any scores in the pics so you may get away with a hone on the jug.
If it cleans up with a light hone it may still be within specs.
Would have to be honed with a bar stone hone, not a bubble hone.
A bubble hone would follow the contors and give a false reading as the abrasives would follow the contors, fooling you into thinking that the bore is uniform..
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If you were sitting on the bike looking down into the cylinder the marks between the exhaust and the transfer ports on the right side. I believe this is where one of the ring gaps are. You can ever so slightly feel that one. If you close your eyes and focus real hard you can also barely feel the scuffs above the intake and exhaust.
Cant loose anything by running a hone in the bore, one quick pass will tell if it is servicable.
You are prolly going to need a new piston, definatly new rings.
I have seen worse refurbished.
You are prolly going to need a new piston, definatly new rings.
I have seen worse refurbished.
