bout to give up

after a heat cycle or 2 you need to check both the base and head gaskets for proper torque.

don't go he-man tight on them though, you can pull the studs right out of the jug.
 
at least if i rebuild it and it breaks i only want to kick my own ass...been there man head gasket went when torqued to "spec" guess what i torqued em to like 85-90 the next time and didnt have problems, only time u should have a shop do something is porting and boring/honing.
 
The head nuts are only like 20ft-lbs of torque. You do have to make sure to torque it down in a criss cross manner. I typically get it all snug then torque criss cross to 10ft-lbs, then criss cross again to 20ft libs. Copper Spray A Gasket is a help too.
 
way to low-ball man. try again with some one on craigslist Pittsburgh who thinks there blaster is all high and mighty because it has a dg pipe. i know what i have been offered in the past and i know what it is worth

i knew that was low. i wonderin if u were pissed enough that youd sell it cheap. how much you want the way it sits?
 
get it pulled apart and get pics of the carnage !!!!!!!
possible it's just the gasket

BTW, IMO, head gaskets only blow for one reason...not retorqing them enuf after doing the heat cycles, after i had one blow, i threw the torque wrench out, and just crank them SOB's tight, havent had a problem since


i do the same damn thing. i think i only used a torque wrench about twice. then i said hell with it since one day i started it and heard a pop then a bog. had an air leak. i just crank mine in a star pattern until i feel its safe. then give them about another 1/8th turn.