Bottom end and rod question

[Fruit]

I have a 96 blaster I bought which was stored since 97. The owner drown it in a creek. I took the head off and the rings were shot. The piston wore against the cylinder. I bored it out .020". Should I split the case to check for debris and wear? Also how much side to side movement should the connecting rod have? Thanks for any help.

 

[sicivicdude]

The tolerances and specifications are located in the factory service manual. A copy of which can be downloaded from the "general support" section of this website.

The big end of the rod should move no more than .026" side to side.

It should move up and down no more .001" (or none at all basically)

It should move side to side at the top no more than .035" I believe.

 

[Blaner]

advisable to split cases, runout on crank should be 0.4 - 0.7mm, check in the general support section for a downloadable manual

 

[sicivicdude]

^^^ blaner's right. It's advisable to split the cases and replace the crank bearings as well. If there is any FOD, the bearings won't last long.

 

[Larry's Shee]

does the crank even spin? ordoes it have five years of rust in it?

 

[Fruit]

Yes It spins freely. Except for the cylinder the bike looks pretty much new. Thanks for the quick replies.

 

[sicivicdude]

I'm surprised honestly, the crankcase is sealed to itself and if water got in there and and the sat after that, it shouldn't have drained out...

You way want to pour some pixed gasoline down into the bottom end and make sure you don't have a leak anywhere. The crankcase should hold the fuel like a bowl. If the fuel leaks out, find the leak!

 

[Fruit]

I think they replaced the oil and were pulling it around to try to get it to start. Which is what happened to the cylinder. Then they just gave up and bought a new one.

 

[sicivicdude]

You may have lucked out on it.

Just make sure the crank is in OK shape before slapping a bottom end on it. If the crank is messed up, the top end won't last long...