blown motor

frankin blaster

New Member
Aug 14, 2012
370
4
0
weirton wv
what would you guys pay for a blown motor im looking to get one but want to know what sound's about fair for one




also what would be a good asking price for lt 230qs spindles calipers and disc protector ?
 
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I've paid as little as $50 for a complete engine requiring work before. The MOST I could see going for an engine that's "blown" is $200 and that's probably high for most folks. The reason is, MOST "blown" engines are the piston siezed to the cylinder. Take it apart, drive the piston out, get it bored and new piston, and you're ready to go again.

It's also possible that the piston broke, snapped the sleeve, bent the rod, jammed through the cases and shredded parts under the clutch cover. That is basically a paperweight....
 
ok great thanks the only reason i want one is to "attempt" port it and see if i made it better or worse i really have no use for an extra motor maybe put it on my bigger pocket bike lmao thats about it or make my rm80 wicked sick with a 200 cc motor which i doubt it will fit but idk i figured i could pick up a blown one and tinker with it and put it back together and run it into the dirt again
 
ok great thanks the only reason i want one is to "attempt" port it and see if i made it better or worse i really have no use for an extra motor maybe put it on my bigger pocket bike lmao thats about it or make my rm80 wicked sick with a 200 cc motor which i doubt it will fit but idk i figured i could pick up a blown one and tinker with it and put it back together and run it into the dirt again

If you're only going to "play" you need to slink around for a long while and try to find a deal on one. Don't go dropping $200 into one that you may get in hand and find a big hole in the case. After you either pay to repair or replace cases, you've got enough money in it that you'll NEED to run it..
 
If you're only going to "play" you need to slink around for a long while and try to find a deal on one. Don't go dropping $200 into one that you may get in hand and find a big hole in the case. After you either pay to repair or replace cases, you've got enough money in it that you'll NEED to run it..

yep understood maybe since i wanna learn to port and such maybe pick up a cheap cylinder and such... not a full motor?
 
thanks for the help i can now see why your a techninian with your to the point responces and know how every fourm should have someone like you in it instead of some pepole blowing smoke up your arse
 
thanks for the help i can now see why your a techninian with your to the point responces and know how every fourm should have someone like you in it instead of some pepole blowing smoke up your arse

Oh, I have plenty of smoke I COULD blow but generally choose not to.... You asked a simple, concise question. I gave a simple, concise answer.

The one way to think about paying for the bore and piston after you do your porting is that even if what you've played around with doesn't turn out to be spectacular, you've still got a fresh piston and top end there.

As long as you stick to light mods on the cylinder you basically aren't going to do nay harm to it so it may not run much better than stock but at least it's fresh and ready to run after that. In my opinion, the money you "lose" getting it bored and buying the piston isn't lost no matter what.
 
I recently took a spare cylinder and did some port tinkering for the fun of it.

Iwent about 2mm overall diameter on the intake ports. cleaned up the base of the timing ports and widen them some at the base.

Then I did like a 3mm exhaust port.


I did not touch the actual timing ports, it was fun to tinker.

But I can tell ya, im glas it was not ready to go, this one needs bored and its easy to scratch the cylinder wall a little.

Mine will come out with a hone job.

It was fun to try, I dont know if I will even use it, or get it honed and chamfered, but it was fun to try.

It gives you a feel for the work. and if I did it again, ill buy the templates.


Sporty
 
I recently took a spare cylinder and did some port tinkering for the fun of it.

Iwent about 2mm overall diameter on the intake ports. cleaned up the base of the timing ports and widen them some at the base.

Then I did like a 3mm exhaust port.


I did not touch the actual timing ports, it was fun to tinker.

But I can tell ya, im glas it was not ready to go, this one needs bored and its easy to scratch the cylinder wall a little.

Mine will come out with a hone job.

It was fun to try, I dont know if I will even use it, or get it honed and chamfered, but it was fun to try.

It gives you a feel for the work. and if I did it again, ill buy the templates.


Sporty

thanks for the feed back on an acutal attempt where could i pick up said templates?
 
Oh, I have plenty of smoke I COULD blow but generally choose not to.... You asked a simple, concise question. I gave a simple, concise answer.

The one way to think about paying for the bore and piston after you do your porting is that even if what you've played around with doesn't turn out to be spectacular, you've still got a fresh piston and top end there.

As long as you stick to light mods on the cylinder you basically aren't going to do nay harm to it so it may not run much better than stock but at least it's fresh and ready to run after that. In my opinion, the money you "lose" getting it bored and buying the piston isn't lost no matter what.
so true thanks again for the advice