Where is your airscrew at ? How far out from lightly seated . I'm talking about the pilot
Blasty smoking...possible concern??
- Thread starter ProjectBlasturd
- Start date
You need to get it hot before you adjust the idle then you can see if the smoke clears up a bit
Well I know for a fact my factory air filter that's in there is shot to hell in the bike isn't jetted for the exhaust that's on it. So one of those two things if not both could be a reason for that right?
If you're talking about the screw on the left side of the bike, it's 1 and 1/2 turns out if I remember correctly. That's what it's been set at
And yeah I know. When I showed you that Idle video the bike was sitting not started. I just started it up and it only idled for about 5 seconds before I was revving it in the video
Well I would clean or get a new air filter . Then clean and jet the carb. for your exhaust and any other mods you have . Let us know what you have and we'll give you a good starting point for your jetting . Air screw at 1.5 out is good .
As far as modifications go I have an FMF fatty and a power core 2 silencer. I'm also about to throw on a uni filter as well. When I talk to Ken from Ken O'Connor racing he told me that being that it's around 40 degrees right now by me I need to run around a 290 to a 310 main jet. But for those modifications alone on average on a nice day I should be running between a 260 and a 280 main jet, Needle on the third position and a 32.5 pilot
Your jetting looks good . I also ran a 310 main when I had similar mods to you . It's good to be a little rich when the weather starts getting cold .
Yeah ken told me to start off richer (at a 310) because of the temps. It still has the factory 230 main in it now but I just bought a jet kit from jetsrus that ran me 30 bucks. It has everything from a 240 to a 320
That 230 is way too lean...wait till you get your new jets to run it again
Lol I definitely plan on it haha. I only really took it out 1 time and I was out for like 2 hours but I didn't beat on it when I had it out. I was feeling it out the whole time.
Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain
when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of
unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
if the air screw ends up being more than 2 1/2 turns out the pi;]lot is too big.
if the air screw is less than 1/2 a turn out the pilot is too small
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain
when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of
unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
if the air screw ends up being more than 2 1/2 turns out the pi;]lot is too big.
if the air screw is less than 1/2 a turn out the pilot is too small
