Blaster won't start

No i rebuilt it and I'm pretty sure I did it right. My dad is a retired mechanic and he was there with me when doing it. Could the reason be that the rings are slightly off than where their supposed to be on the piston. It is kinda hard to keep it lined up when putting the cylinder on.
 
No i rebuilt it and I'm pretty sure I did it right. My dad is a retired mechanic and he was there with me when doing it. Could the reason be that the rings are slightly off than where their supposed to be on the piston. It is kinda hard to keep it lined up when putting the cylinder on.

I'd check it out anyway. Thats just one more thing to eliminate in trying to get it running again.

What exactly do you mean by the rings were slightly off?
 
You know the marks on the piston so the rings can set right? I aligned them up but they might have shifted a little when putting the cylinder on.
 
Ya blows my mind to. The only bad thing is I don't have a flywheel puller.. Any other way to pull the flywheel off?
 
Ok I will, hopefully that's the problem, when I had the side cover case off the flywheel didn't appear to be cracked.
 
You know the marks on the piston so the rings can set right? I aligned them up but they might have shifted a little when putting the cylinder on.

The rings are positioned by pins inserted into the piston, there is no way you can get a jug on if the rings have ridden up over the pin.

Maybe I have spoken too soon, I do know a guy that works for RAG Engineering that managed to fit one FBH style.

Any other way to pull the flywheel off?

Give RAGs a ring!
 
All did was align the rings up to where the mark was on the piston. Squeezed the rings so the jug would slide on and so on.
 
I didn't see this mentioned at all but I have to ask...is the idle turned up enough to where it will start and idle? Is the air screw adjusted right? If the oil injection was removed was the carb nipple blocked off?
 
Ya I've been screwing around with the idle and air screw. But the oil injection thing is not blocked off.. Surprisingly nothing on the carb is blocked off. I took pics I just have to figure out how to upload them.
 
If the oil injection nipple on the carb is not blocked up, you will be running a dangerously lean mix at all throttle openings.

Premature death of a fresh rebuild is imminent.

Every other tube should be open to atmosphere.

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Idle adjusting.

Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
Ya blows my mind to. The only bad thing is I don't have a flywheel puller.. Any other way to pull the flywheel off?

Do you know anyone that has one of these machines that you can use thier puller?

Suzuki
- Quad Racers, 125/160EK/250R, DR 100/125/00, DS 80, ALT 185, 50 - 125cc Trail & Street Models & Late Model RMs
Yamaha
- single cylinder quads with external flywheels
- YFM80/100/200/225
- YFS200 Blaster
- YFZ350 Banshee
- YSR50
- YT125/175
- YZ 400F
KTM
- 65SX (99-04)
- 85SX (04)
- 105SX (04)
- 200 EXC/MXC (98-05)
- 125/250 SX/EXC/MXC (98-05) & 250/300/380 SX/EXC/MXC (97-05)
Kawasaki
-KD/KX/KDX 80, KM 100, KS 125 & Most 2-Stroke External Flywheel Models & Earlier Point-Type Ignitions
Honda
- CR 80R/125R/250R/45R/480R/500R, XL 80/100/170. XR 100/100R. XR/CRF 50 (00-04), FL 250, ATC 70/110 (CDI Only), ATC 185/250R,TRX 90 (93-00), TRX 70/125/250 & Early 50cc
 
No surprisingly none of my friends have pullers. Sorry the pics are so bad my iphone can't take pics for crap. Would it not being covered cause it not to run?