so i was riding and my blaster died thought i just fouled a plug so i got a new one still wont start and now it backfires every few kicks when i try to start it what do you think i should do next
blaster wont start
- Thread starter curt514630
- Start date
where would the flywheel key be located in the crankcase. i really only know some basics about the bike but i know the reeds cause i just put them in
but that will cause it to backfire and not start but i did pull start it and rode it out of the woods but it just wont kickstart
check to see how strong your spark is, your ignition coil might have had it or the pick up coil in the stator (you can check these with a DMM w/o pulling anything apart) if it is weak.
I just dealt with this.
Heres what I did.
I took a digital multimeter to the orange wire on the coil while a buddy kicked it. I grounded the DMM to the black coil wire (bike chassis ground), and I unplugged the orange wire and connected my positive terminal to the side that comes from the bikes wiring harness (it comes off the CDI box).
I had my buddy kick the starter, and I was getting weak numbers (1-3 volts - should be closer to 12)
I then ohmed out the stator wires. Black and Black/Red is one side (primary coil) and White and Red/Black is the secondary.
My secondary coil was in spec, but the primary was out. I had suspected my stator was suspect when I got my bike (it didnt work when I got it), I had already bought one off someone on here. So, I ohmed out the new stator. Oddly enough the primary coil was on and the secondary coil was off but I threw it on anyway.
Bike fired up on the first kick after replacing the stator.
If your woodruff key was broken, your bike would make voltage, but it would make it at the wrong time, so the ignition timing would be out far enough to make it fire late or early. So, if you measure a decent voltage number at the coil on kicking it (remember, unplug the orange wire, and measure the side that comes from the CDI box, not the side that goes to the coil) its probably your woodruff key. If the voltage is LOW like mine was, its most likely your stator.
If your voltage is ON, and your woodruff key is GOOD, and you still cant get it to start, it could be your ignition coil, but word of note, I used the manual for troubleshooting on mine. It goes down this list. It says to replace anything out of spec. So it has you check all this shizz. It has you check the key switch, the main switch, the ignition coil (primary and secondary) then the Stator.
My ignition coil didnt test out properly, so I bought one from Yamaha and guess what LOL, the new coil didnt test out properly either, and they both work FINE.
So, beware of your manual readings. My new stator was off on the secondary coil and it works fine as well.
But if your issue is electrical related, Id just find the blaster manual and whoop out the digital multimeter and test on down the road. But Id post my findings here before I went and bought stuff, cause I bought EVERYTHING to replace stuff, and my issue was just my stator, even though Yamaha told me my coil was bad.
Heres what I did.
I took a digital multimeter to the orange wire on the coil while a buddy kicked it. I grounded the DMM to the black coil wire (bike chassis ground), and I unplugged the orange wire and connected my positive terminal to the side that comes from the bikes wiring harness (it comes off the CDI box).
I had my buddy kick the starter, and I was getting weak numbers (1-3 volts - should be closer to 12)
I then ohmed out the stator wires. Black and Black/Red is one side (primary coil) and White and Red/Black is the secondary.
My secondary coil was in spec, but the primary was out. I had suspected my stator was suspect when I got my bike (it didnt work when I got it), I had already bought one off someone on here. So, I ohmed out the new stator. Oddly enough the primary coil was on and the secondary coil was off but I threw it on anyway.
Bike fired up on the first kick after replacing the stator.
If your woodruff key was broken, your bike would make voltage, but it would make it at the wrong time, so the ignition timing would be out far enough to make it fire late or early. So, if you measure a decent voltage number at the coil on kicking it (remember, unplug the orange wire, and measure the side that comes from the CDI box, not the side that goes to the coil) its probably your woodruff key. If the voltage is LOW like mine was, its most likely your stator.
If your voltage is ON, and your woodruff key is GOOD, and you still cant get it to start, it could be your ignition coil, but word of note, I used the manual for troubleshooting on mine. It goes down this list. It says to replace anything out of spec. So it has you check all this shizz. It has you check the key switch, the main switch, the ignition coil (primary and secondary) then the Stator.
My ignition coil didnt test out properly, so I bought one from Yamaha and guess what LOL, the new coil didnt test out properly either, and they both work FINE.
So, beware of your manual readings. My new stator was off on the secondary coil and it works fine as well.
But if your issue is electrical related, Id just find the blaster manual and whoop out the digital multimeter and test on down the road. But Id post my findings here before I went and bought stuff, cause I bought EVERYTHING to replace stuff, and my issue was just my stator, even though Yamaha told me my coil was bad.
thanks man i appreciate all the good info im gonna try it tonight thank god im an electrician and know how to use the dmm rep given
Hopefully it turns out for you.
Im still kind of a noob to blasters in general, but I just got over your exact issue. I was given a blaster that wasnt functional. My girlfriends dad owned it. We did the troubleshooting on the switches and ignition coil. I told him according to the manual it was out of spec so he bought a new coil from Yamaha I believe. Put the new coil on there and still was not starting.
So I went down the list and ohmed out the stator. At first the stator had no continunity between black and black and red. I took the flywheel off and noticed a broken wire that acts as a ground (theres a short wire that connects to the stator body via a small screw. It was broken, so I soldered a new lead on it and regrounded it. I ohmed it out again and it read, but it was low. I tried kicking it. Still no start. I figured maybe it was flooded. I pullstarted it around my neighborhood, still wouldnt start.
Just in case, I ordered a new woodruff key just in case, but mine wasnt off, or sheared or nothing, so all was well there.
I also ordered a wiring harness that had a new voltage regulator and a CDI unit on it, for testing. I also replaced those guys as well but still no start.
I took the new stator I bought and just put it on anyway. It started right up.
For the primary coil you measure in the 100 ohm range. For the secondary coil you measure in the 1-10 ohm range.
I found the manual somewhere online, prolly on this site. Id recommend downloading it and using it as a troubleshooting guide for this. I hope Im not leading you astray, but your issue sounded pretty much like mine. Same old, would start for a minute then backfire, then eventually it just wouldnt start at all.
Edit for troubleshooting.
Ignition Ohm Test:
primary x 1
black and orange
1.44 - 1.75
secondary x 100
Orange and spark plug lead
5.28 - 7.92
Stator Ohm Test:
Source x 100
Black/Red Black
192-288
Pickup x 1-10
White Red/Black
16-24
Im still kind of a noob to blasters in general, but I just got over your exact issue. I was given a blaster that wasnt functional. My girlfriends dad owned it. We did the troubleshooting on the switches and ignition coil. I told him according to the manual it was out of spec so he bought a new coil from Yamaha I believe. Put the new coil on there and still was not starting.
So I went down the list and ohmed out the stator. At first the stator had no continunity between black and black and red. I took the flywheel off and noticed a broken wire that acts as a ground (theres a short wire that connects to the stator body via a small screw. It was broken, so I soldered a new lead on it and regrounded it. I ohmed it out again and it read, but it was low. I tried kicking it. Still no start. I figured maybe it was flooded. I pullstarted it around my neighborhood, still wouldnt start.
Just in case, I ordered a new woodruff key just in case, but mine wasnt off, or sheared or nothing, so all was well there.
I also ordered a wiring harness that had a new voltage regulator and a CDI unit on it, for testing. I also replaced those guys as well but still no start.
I took the new stator I bought and just put it on anyway. It started right up.
For the primary coil you measure in the 100 ohm range. For the secondary coil you measure in the 1-10 ohm range.
I found the manual somewhere online, prolly on this site. Id recommend downloading it and using it as a troubleshooting guide for this. I hope Im not leading you astray, but your issue sounded pretty much like mine. Same old, would start for a minute then backfire, then eventually it just wouldnt start at all.
Edit for troubleshooting.
Ignition Ohm Test:
primary x 1
black and orange
1.44 - 1.75
secondary x 100
Orange and spark plug lead
5.28 - 7.92
Stator Ohm Test:
Source x 100
Black/Red Black
192-288
Pickup x 1-10
White Red/Black
16-24
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It is the rings, you can not make enough pressure kicking it but when you pull it you build up pressure fast and it will start and run but not for long them rings are junk. So get a compression gage an check the compression i bet it is low should be 100 to 130 psi. let me know.
Thats true guys. Well, he knows what to look for compression wise, and he knows what to look for electrical system wise.
idk i just got the top end done but im gonna check it anyways where do i get a compression checker the dealership or is it something autozone carries im gonna start rippin into it tommorow. im a little to frustrated with it tonite it is just one thing after another with this thing but i did notice it was easy to kick over i mean i could do it with my hand
yeah i just got on there website its only like 20 bucks im gonna get it tommorow ill let you guys know what happens
if it was just redone, chances are your top end just went. If you could turn it over easily with your hand, then comp is def on the low side.
