Blaster wont run

Thank you and WOT plug chop? And what middle clip setting? The float?
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride Wide Open Throttle through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

This is a good to go plug.
2wr2fwo.jpg


This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.

plug152mainmediumoi2.jpg

You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
 
So if i do the hose trick and it is just above the gasket then it should be fine? And if i delet my tors system but leave it on my carb can anything bad happen? ThAnk you !!!!
The level should be level with the gasket top .

Tou can leave the TORS brick on the carb after you disable it it then is only for show and nothing bad will happen.
 
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The level should be level with the gasket top .

Tou can leave the TORS brick on the carb after you disable it it then is only for show and nothing bad will happen.
Thank you and could my tors be acting up and thats why my bike wont run?
 
Thank you and WOT plug chop? And what middle clip setting? The float?
The slide that fits down the carby body has a tapered needle hanging down from it, there are 5 different setting the clip can be put on, you need the centre setting, 3rd clip.

Float setting 20 - 21.5 mm.
 
To save me searching the posts, what are your symptoms?
130 compression to start off with and i just bought it ran good when i test rided it (10 mins) but when i got home i tried ridding it and 15- 20 mins it bog and die almost instantly and wouldn't start till it cooled down cleaned my carb twice ,changed my stator , new plug , and now it will only start if you kick it really really hard and it runs like crap and bogs then dies. It has a house a/c filter as the air filter (K&N is on the way being shipped also new reeds tommorow) i have spark also
To save me searching the posts, what are your symptoms?
 
An air leak however small can upset the air/fuel ratio and make it run lean and destructive.

2 STROKES ARE PRONE TO LEAKS AND SHOULD BE TESTED ON PURCHASE AND TWICE A SEASON.

DO A LEAK TEST AND REPORT BACK, CONTACT Awk08 for a tester.

Sorry for shouting I have a sticky caps key.
 
An air leak however small can upset the air/fuel ratio and make it run lean and destructive.

2 STROKES ARE PRONE TO LEAKS AND SHOULD BE TESTED ON PURCHASE AND TWICE A SEASON.

DO A LEAK TEST AND REPORT BACK, CONTACT Awk08 for a tester.

Sorry for shouting I have a sticky caps key.
thank you and stupid question could i spray my head with soap and water and just kick it over and see if there's a leak??
 
No i have not yet I've seen how to tho is that a serious problem
If you over heated and shed some of the piston to the bore, you could still have a good compression reading, but it may be hard to kick over as the rings may be grabbing the deposited piston material on the bore.
 
If you over heated and shed some of the piston to the bore, you could still have a good compression reading, but it may be hard to kick over as the rings may be grabbing the deposited piston material on the bore.
Its easy to kick over but wont start unless i kick it hard
 
ARE THE REEDS GOOD?
I am not familiar with reeds that well they look a little black from being burnt and looks like it has NO gap but i could be wrong ipurchased new boysen one they will be here tommorow im hoping it fixes it. Can the slightest gap do this?
 
Three things a 2 stroke needs to start and run.

1. Compression, which you have.

2. Spark at the correct time.

3. Fuel/air at the correct ratio, air leaks, float settings, idle settings all affect these.

When you try to start the engine pull the choke out and do not touch the throttle.
 
I am not familiar with reeds that well they look a little black from being burnt and looks like it has NO gap but i could be wrong ipurchased new boysen one they will be here tommorow im hoping it fixes it. Can the slightest gap do this?
A small gap should not hurt it will close with crankcase pressure.
 
When you put the reed cage back on did you use a sealant and tension the bolts to 5.8 ft lbs, diagonally and incrementally, if not your inlet could have a major air leak, they leak at the smallest miss tension.

Do them up too tight and the reed cage warps.