so one day i was riding and it just stopped running, brought it home and it still wouldnt run, before it stopped running i was using a new nology profire ignition, and was running it for about a month. we bought a carb rebuild kit for it and changed out everything except the jet needle cuz theres nothing wrong with that, and we replaced the plug wire and it still wont run. I had my dad pull me around by a tractor while i had it in first gear and it ran for about 5 secs then quit, and when we got back i pulled the plug and it was almost a black color but not the black as if it was running rich it was almost an oily lookin black, im kinda thinkin it may b the reed valves but idk how to tell if they r bad or not... any help is much appreciated ty!
Blaster wont run...
- Thread starter ecurbd02
- Start date
you put in a new plug? sounds like you seem to know what your talking about, but the plug could just be fouled.
if not, could be your tors. do the removal and see if it works then.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/
if not, could be your tors. do the removal and see if it works then.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/
pull the carb, then the intake (4 bolts) and the reed cage will slide out...if the reeds are cracked or broken, you know your problem
But as stated above, your plug could be fouled.
But as stated above, your plug could be fouled.
an oily looking black plug sounds like it wasnt firing at all, try a new plug it should have kickass spark with the nology kit
well before we tried the little tractor pull stunt we put in a brand new plug, i have about 3 or 4 ofem, and i took the reed valves out a while ago and checked for cracks and what not and i didnt see anything so i was wondering if there were any other signs of bad reed valves that i should b aware of, and i dont of the hott wires that they say to use with nology ignition, i just have the ignition hooked up with a lawn mower plug wire
Make sure the reeds are mostly sealed around the reed cage and check compression with a guage. It sounds like you did most of the normal stuff already though.
yea do a compression check with a compression tester you can get for like 20 dollars. i think advanced auto parts can lend you one for an amount of money, then when you return it they give you your money back
the compression should be 120+
if its lower then you will need a rebuild
and yes check your reeds
take your carb off and take the intake boot off (the thing the carb goes in from the motor with the 4 screws) and see if the reeds are cracked or damaged
the compression should be 120+
if its lower then you will need a rebuild
and yes check your reeds
take your carb off and take the intake boot off (the thing the carb goes in from the motor with the 4 screws) and see if the reeds are cracked or damaged
ALWAYS start simple.. engines need fuel, compression, and spark to run.. the plug is wet right?. you have fuel.. and since that plug is wet after pulling it with a tractor youi may be looking at a lack of spark... my educated guess.. flywheel key sheared.. common issue on blasters.. a compression check won't hurt..
also i saw a few post sup someone said that your compression should be about 120psi... not at 2000ft it won't be.. static compression changes with air density changes.. such as elevation.. so the higher you go the air is "thinner" or less atmospheric pressure.. when the air is thinner then this will actually lower the compression.. even though the "compression ratio" is the same the air density has changed.. you diggin what i'm shovelin?
