Yes thank you there is a screw I can adjust on the right side but also when or whoever did the tors delete put one in on the left side that the screw has a nut on it
Blaster won’t idle help please
- Thread starter Howard
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Yes thank you there is a screw I can adjust on the right side but also when or whoever did the tors delete put one in on the left side that the screw has a nut on it
How many screws are there on the right side of your carb? There should be an air screw to the right of the fuel inlet. Then an empty hole where the idle screw would be if it’s not installed. And for the left side there shouldn’t be any screws.
From the videos I have watch for the 2004 blaster 200 with the tours delete kit comes with two screws one for the left side and one for the right side on the left side you’re supposed to grind down the lip of the hall then drill it out and put the screw in but that is from the tours delete videos that I have watched for this blaster. But the right side of my curb has the screw in it to adjust just one then the left side has a screw you can adjust just one
. Hmm. From what I’ve seen there shouldn’t be any screws to adjust on the left side. But on the right side with the choke there should be the air screw and then the idle screw for the TORS delete. Let me look it up again... I know that some TORS delete kits come with 2 screws, but you only use 2 for the Banshee. And 1 for the Blaster.
I’m trying to send a link for another idle screw install post, but I’m on my phone and I can’t get it....
Make sure carb is clean... most will not idle with dirty jets. They must me be totally clean and clear. (carb cleaner and some compressed air) reset float.
Cap off the right side.
If you cant find the 6mm x 0.75 helicoil, I did a 1/4 x 28 standard brass nut and bolt. I tapered the bolt so it slightly raises the slide as you turn the bolt in.(thus increasing idle) It should NOT go past the slot in the slide(mine runs great)
Good luck
Cap off the right side.
If you cant find the 6mm x 0.75 helicoil, I did a 1/4 x 28 standard brass nut and bolt. I tapered the bolt so it slightly raises the slide as you turn the bolt in.(thus increasing idle) It should NOT go past the slot in the slide(mine runs great)
Good luck
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Ok there is a bolt in place of that will take pictures so should I just block off the left side intirely
The brass screws and nut should be on the left where the normal bolt is. Idk why there is a normal bolt in there...i would try to get the brass screw and nut in the left if the threads aren’t messed up. And plug the right side hole and see if you can get it to idle. Turning it in should raise the rpm then turning it out will decrease rpm. It wouldn’t hurt to take the whole carb apart and clean it. Also while your in there check the main jet size. Stock is 230. But your running 32:1 so the jet size should be bigger (like 250 for example). But first I would try getting it to idle before jetting it if that’s needed.
One Idle screw goes on the choke side (which I call the left as you sit on the bike)
the other side (where your idle screw is now) should not be drilled thru into the carb throat, if it is seal it with Copper RTV and a short bolt
this oil injection hose needs blocked off or she's gonna blow !!!!!
That's a MAJOR airleak, an 1/8" vacuum cap from any auto parts store works best, (on the brass nipple under the hose)
but RTV in the hose followed by a correct size screw gets the job done too..................
the other side (where your idle screw is now) should not be drilled thru into the carb throat, if it is seal it with Copper RTV and a short bolt
this oil injection hose needs blocked off or she's gonna blow !!!!!
That's a MAJOR airleak, an 1/8" vacuum cap from any auto parts store works best, (on the brass nipple under the hose)
but RTV in the hose followed by a correct size screw gets the job done too..................
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