Blaster turned off while riding

[Andrew1994]

so I did a top end rebuild on a2001 blaster I picked up, put an fmf fatty/silencer. Upgraded the jetting with the fmf jetting kit. Followed all instructions everything was good. Broke the engine in accordingly, new air filter/irriduium spark plug. The thing has been running great, has about 3-4 hours on it. Changed the oil and plug after break in of course.

Today I was out riding and my buddy was riding it, I was behind him and all the sudden the wheels locked suddenly and it shut off. So a minute later it started right up and did it again 30 seconds later. This time it took about 5 minutes to start.

I turned the fuel off and it was flooded but that was probably from me kicking it so many times giving it gas here and there. Got it running and it was running very powerful after for a minute, then got really choppy and horrible, so I shut it down to prevent any further damage.

The clutch has always been a litttle hard to pull, even with a new cable. I was wondering if maybe that could be clutch related? About an hour earlier to these problems I tried to launch out of first gear, and it kind of just banged and shut off... that was probably a bad sign from the start.

I’m going to do a compression test/check the plug in the next few days when I have time. But has anyone ever experienced anything like this before? I’m trying to avoid splitting the cases at all costs but if I have to it is what it is. It would be awesome if anyone has any input, thanks!

 

[speedyslyder]

they always run the best right before they blow up.
something has to come off take your pick?
you can take exhaust off look up with flashlight at the cylinder for damage.
take off reed cage reeds look for metal aluminum flakes.
take cylinder head or cylinder off look for damage ect

take plastic flywheel cover off look for damage sometimes the timing key break's
or the flywheel magnets/stator collide with each other
if you don't see metal shaving in the top end
and the flywheel/stator is in tact with the key no broken
then open up the clutch cover
taking out the spark plug will help with diagnosis rotation issue's depending on the situation
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/about-air-leaks-save-your-engine.55537/#post-763164

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/kor-engine-assembly-vids.51169/

 

[Andrew1994]

they always run the best right before they blow up.
something has to come off take your pick?
you can take exhaust off look up with flashlight at the cylinder for damage.
take off reed cage reeds look for metal aluminum flakes.
take cylinder head or cylinder off look for damage ect

take plastic flywheel cover off look for damage sometimes the timing key break's
or the flywheel magnets/stator collide with each other
if you don't see metal shaving in the top end
and the flywheel/stator is in tact with the key no broken
then open up the clutch cover
taking out the spark plug will help with diagnosis rotation issue's depending on the situation
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/about-air-leaks-save-your-engine.55537/#post-763164

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/kor-engine-assembly-vids.51169/

So I tore the top end off.. pretty blown if I must say. Compression was about 88. It seems it’s running to lean.. with the fmf fatty and silencer I did the fmf jet upgrade by the books and it was fine at first. What could I have done differently?

 

[Andrew1994]

I also did an oil injection block off, and running 32:1

 

[Awk08]

Explain this... FMF jet kit upgrade "by the books" ?
What jets ?
What main did you choose and why ?

The Blaster Forum book says............... "leakdown test, repeat until it passes,
then buy the range of main jets recommended by experienced members, start with the largest main jet and PLUG CHOP down.


Does the FMF book mention leakdown tests or plug chops ?

 

[speedyslyder]

sooooo you put a new piston in?
what did you do to the cylinder?
need more info to vague of text and
beating around the bush
also that water bottle looks like 80 weight gear oil
as it should after being run
Although the gear oil and top end are completely separate on
a 2-stroke.
the 2 stroke oil lubes the cylinder top end parts
crank whatever it is not a 4-stroke engine.
the gear oil lubes the clutch and gears
again even my text is to vague lots to be said but you need to explain more
so we can better understand what has or has not been done.

get the cylinder bored/ports chamfered properly.... And fitted with new piston/and the pied cutted exhaust piston's tend to have more issues with exhaust side damage just saying.
leak test ......./break in the new parts properly/and jet accordingly
and you should not have any problems.
if it was a cheap chinese cylinder offline good luck stop wasting your money oem or bust