Blaster Rebuild

Motors back together, has CRAZY compression. Did a leak down test and it would just piss out air. It turns out the reed cage was leaking w/ brand new oem gasket. I made sure it was torqued properly but it still leaked. So I coated the gasket with gasket maker and that did the job. After it dropped 1 psi per minute 1/2. I can't hear it leaking and I sprayed entire motor with soapy water. It's definitely not the stator side seal. Maybe it'll go away once the engine is broken in? Ive yet to start it since I still have to tap carburetor and clean up exhaust. I hope my posts are interesting or maybe I'm just talking to myself.

 
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Motors back together, has CRAZY compression. Did a leak down test and it would just piss out air. It turns out the reed cage was leaking w/ brand new oem gasket. I made sure it was torqued properly but it still leaked. So I coated the gasket with gasket maker and that did the job. After it dropped 1 psi per minute 1/2. I can't hear it leaking and I sprayed entire motor with soapy water. It's definitely not the stator side seal. Maybe it'll go away once the engine is broken in? Ive yet to start it since I still have to tap carburetor and clean up exhaust. I hope my posts are interesting or maybe I'm just talking to myself.

 
I always coat that gasket with Yamabond. It's the only way ive never had one leak.

Losing 1 psi over 1.5 minutes isn't bad. Leave it go for awhile and see if it totally discharges.

Once my leakdown tester was leaking off at the gauge. A little more thread tape and some tightening solved that. Similar to what your saying, and a pain in the ass to figure out. Spray it down with soapy water too.
 
So I need help trying to instal new wheel bearing but the bearing don't want to come out. The carrier is off the bike and the axle is out but the bearings won't come out. Need suggestions. I don't have a press
 

Or use a threaded all tread and nuts and sockets to remove and install in bearings. I have made one before and worked mint. Kind of like this photo.

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PB Blaster and a propane torch help with axle bearing removal.
Heat cycles and retorque, then leak down test again.
Good stuff so far !
 
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I use a specially bent large screwdriver to get the first bearing out, coming in thru the opposite side, the problem is the bearing spacer pipe like thingy only allows you to catch a very small lip.
PB Blaster the night before, heat carrier around where the bearing is, PB Blaster again. Long thick screwdriver with bent tip to catch the lip and pound away with BFH. Apply more PB and heat as needed.
Once you get the first side and spacer out, a long ratchet extension and correct size socket will pound the other side out.
A good solid vise is a must for this !

Freeze bearings and heat carrier to drop new ones in, use correct size socket to fit outside race only, never pound on the inner race, to help seat them fully
don't forget to reinstall the spacer.
 
I use a specially bent large screwdriver to get the first bearing out, coming in thru the opposite side, the problem is the bearing spacer pipe like thingy only allows you to catch a very small lip.
PB Blaster the night before, heat carrier around where the bearing is, PB Blaster again. Long thick screwdriver with bent tip to catch the lip and pound away with BFH. Apply more PB and heat as needed.
Once you get the first side and spacer out,
A long ratchet extension and correct size socket will poundcthe other side out.
A good solid vise is a must for this !

Freeze bearings and heat carrier to drop new ones in, use correct size socket to fit outside race only, never pound on the inner race, to help sear them fully
don't forget to reinstall the spacer.
I can try that out. Here's pics of what I'm working with
 

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I got antsy and decided to put the carb back on and do the heat cycles(since the axle bearings were being a pain in my arse). I drained out all the fuel and put newly mixed 32:1 in it with a splash of oil. It started up 2nd or 3rd kick and sounds GREAT!!! However i have to be giving it 1/8 throttle to keep it running. I shut it off and adjusted the newly installed idle screw. Again it wouldn't idle, my question is does it need to idle to do the heat cycles. Or can I do the 3 cycles and come back to the idling problem?
 
Another thing, don't know if this matters but I have Vito's reeds, pro circuit pipe, dg silencer, uni filter with open air box, 280 main jet, and air screw is 1.5 turns out
 
I can try that out. Here's pics of what I'm working with

Wow that looks dirty/rusty. You tried heating the carrier and hitting the bearings out? Lots of penetrating oil is also good as that's how I got a swing arm bolt out of a cr125. I let the oil/spray soak into the bearing area over night.
Or take it to a bike shop and they will rip them out in seconds.

Oh and that tool will not be very useful for removing them bears unless you can get one bear out. but tool is perfect for installing them.

Works like this But a longer threaded rod is needed for doing front wheel bearings and axle bearings. Wish I made a video of me doing it. Maybe I should when I go to install new bearings. Kind of works as a press. Also works good on removed bearings not just needle bearings
 
Finished heat cycles. Rode it around slowing after each run I would back out the throttle limit screw. Only ran it once since the whole break in procedure and never took it out of 3rd gear. Thanks so much for the support and staying tuned in. This won't be my last post :)
 
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Both blasters done?? I just got some dg steel nerf bars for the 06, but they seem too big. IDK. also looking for cheap aftermarket front bumper. Thinking about selling the 02 and getting a 1994 kx125 project or putting it towards a 400ex. Tell me what you think of the blue paint on the bottom of rear plastic. Too messy, should I paint it black??