Blaster has no low end power

djpunee

New Member
Dec 27, 2009
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okay so this has been long and frustrating. i have an 01 which i just had resleeved to stock bore with new wiseco piston and rings. comp test shows 143 psi. i also cleaned the carb 7 times and installed a new moose carb rebuild kit w/ 230 main jet. also installed new boyesen reeds and new plug and oil change. Now for the problem, starts right up, a little sluggish on intial rev but hits a high note quick just after. when i take off it has no low end power and takes forever to get above 2 mph, literally and then in and out of power after, while in higher rpm's. i have carb set to spec, correctly removed tors, and oil pump by taking out the plastic gear and plugged and cut the oil lines. even changed the exhaust incase it was plugged and got a new uni air filter. its getting fuel, air and spark. only thing i did was remove the base gasket and used gasket sealant instead, however no signs of leaking are present. checked the stator which ohmed out good and oil seal on that side which also looked good. oh and i used new 93 pump gas mixed with suzuki 2 cycle oil at 32:1, Any ideas????????PLEASE!!!!:(
 
are the ports lined up on the sleeve and the plastic gear actually throws oil up ont the clutch and other gears if i remembe correctl its on any small engine you take apart
 
assuming your talking about the intake and exhaust ports on the sleeve then yes other than being a bit misshaped than cylinder as they always are. What do you mean about the plastic gear and clutch? re you talking about the oil injection gear?
 
Does it idle high? It almost sounds like you may have an air leak. I don't recommend eliminating the base gasket, you run the risk of an air leak and meltdown. You have also decreased your squish clearance by .018-.020 inches which can also cause major problems especially if you have a modified head. My recommendation is to put the proper gaskets on and have a leak down test done....then start tuning.
-Brandon
 
idles normal, i had to adjust idle from throttle assebly bcuz when i tried to adjsut from idle screw on tors unit, it didnt change at all. im oing to install a base gasket tommorrow. iseems like if i pull off the intake boot while running, it sprays gas out or the carb a bit. the service manual says to set the needle on the 2nd mark which i assume means 2nd from the top. one other thing is the choke doesnt seem to go all the way in and looks like its pushed out about 1/8th inch. however when i measure it outside of the carb lengthwise, it looks like it could be too long to go all the way in, however i dont think that this would cause my issue
 
o may try to check de air/gasoline in carb maybe it´s to much air...or bad work on porting
 
update, i tore it all apart today, inspected it to find nothing wrong and reassembled with new full gasket kit. still same issue. appears to be running rich. i also inspected the new reeds and they are closed shut and no damage to reeds or reed valve assembly. funny thing is, when i am riding it and shut off the gas, it starts to take off as it leans out. i've tried adjusting the carb and lowering the needle to the lowest position and still no change? any other ideas? Are we sure it cannot be electrical?:-/
 
Sounds annoying. I'm no expert just tryng to help. Did you check the height on your carb float? My blaster will start idling high when I cut off the gas. Don't know if it is common or not.
 
put your needle back to the middle clip position before you burn it up. Now try to adjust the air screw (brass screw on left side of carb right behind the slide), turn it out to lean the low end. Useable range on the air screw is .5 to 2.5 turns out. If your blaster is otherwise stock and sealed well you should be withing this range with your stock pilot jet. Base setting is 1.5 turns out. Turning it in will richen the low speed mixture, out will lean it. Reeds will often require leaning out the low and mid a little. Your idle adjustment issue would be caused by having your throttle cable adjusted too tight, you should have about 1/4 inch of free lever movement before the slide starts to raise.
-Brandon
 
thanks for all of the support. i was thinking, what if its a bad coil or something and though its getting spark, maybe its not getting enough spark to overcome the gas being put into it. like i said it has almost no lowend then once it takes off, its in and out of its powerband per say
 
new update, just took my buddys 01 yz85 carb and put in on the blaster and same problem, even though its not exactly setup for the blaster it felt exactly the same as mine. now its either the clutch side oil seal or something with the ignition. it seems to get plenty of spark though, i read coil caps go bad as well
 
Sounds annoying. I'm no expert just tryng to help. Did you check the height on your carb float? My blaster will start idling high when I cut off the gas. Don't know if it is common or not.

yes its normal but not very healthy. less fuel = less lubrication = higher air to fuel ratio = higher rpms
 
Mine ran really crummy when the stator plate cracked... not saying that is your issue but if you think it is electrical it could be something like that. it would start up and rev pretty good in neutral but once you started moving it would stumble and run like crap.
 
Pull the flywheel and check the magnets on the inside. Are they clean? Mine were not and it did that. It would act like it was flooding when you got on it to ride. Replaced the crank seal today and it runs like a scalded dog now. I cleaned all the coils and the inside of the flywheel with some 2000 grit sandpaper. Good luck, hope this helps.