Blaster doesn't like hills at all.

boughtmeablastr

New Member
Jun 22, 2014
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So I picked up this blaster about a week ago, the guy said it's only problem was it bogged down on hills and maybe needed a carb adjustment or rejetting. It has a DG exhaust on it and I'm not sure of the size of the carb but it is bigger than the stock one. I tried it as is when I got it and I could never get it to start without starting fluid. The carb was clean as a whistle and looked brand new, but had a main jet of 260 and I thought maybe that was my problem. When i tried riding it i cpuldnt even get enough power to get into 5th gear and hills were way out of the question. I got my hands on a stock blaster carb and tried it out, it finally started without starting fluid and idled great, but it would bog down as soon as I pushed in on the throttle at all. I took the main jet out of the stock carb (230) and put it in the carb that what on it when I bought it and put that carb back on the blaster. I started it up and rode it and it was much faster than before, but still didn't have a ton of acceleration and I can't make it up even a 15 foot maybe 50 degree incline even with a good head start. As soon as I start needing power to climb it just bogs down on me even in first and full throttle. The carb is very clean, the current main jet is 230, the needle is set on the first notch (any notches lower ruined my midlle-throttle response), and the air filter is clean. What could be my problem??
 
Post some pics of the mystery carb so we can identify it, its definitely a mikuni since the jets swapped, do you have any other mods besides pipe? An definitely leak test an compression test
 
Thanks for your replies! Ill get pics of the carb this evening, and yes it is a mikuni, the air filter side (forgive me for my lack of technical terms) is much bigger than the stock carb. Oil pump is disabled, mixing 32:1 with 93 gas, had same results with 89 and 87. The only other mods are boyeson reeds. If I were to fail a compression test, what would I have to do?
 
Just a few random thoughts here.
The stock carb is best for what you have.
230 main is too small for either carb.
The main jet has nothing to do with starting.
You definitely need to do a leakdown test and a compression test.
 
The first thing to do after loosing the can of starting fluid is to test for air leaks.

If you need to use starting fluid or any other means to get the engine to start, you have a problem with the carb, or the compression is very low, or one or more of the reeds could be broken.

The DG pipe alone will call for a #250 -#260 main jet.

32:1 pre mix will need one size larger.

After market air cleaners and air box removal 2 - 3 sizes larger again.

Stick with the stock carb, the DG will perform best with it.

The pilot jet should #32.5 and the needle set in the middle clip position.

Set the float level 20 - 21.5mm, adjust the idle as specs, and pelt that can of starting fluid as far as you can into the distance.
 
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Thanks for your great info and help! Tomorrow I'll put back on the stock carb and a bigger main jet, and I'll check the reeds but they're supposed to be new. I don't have a way to compression test yet so that will have to wait. I do feel that the carb is the problem for not starting without starting fluid, as the stock carb works without it. Again, thanks for the help!
 
If you need to spray anything into the intake to assist in starting, do not use starting fluid, use what the engine runs on.

Put some pre mix in an atomiser bottle and spray that in it!

I feel that you should leak test the engine to be on the safe side.

Bear in mind that a bigger jet will not assist in starting as the main jet only comes in at above 3/4 throttle.

When starting, pull out the choke and keep your thumb off of the throttle.
 
I think the problem with starting may be the bigger carb. It started without fluid with the stock carb on it, idled ok, but wouldn't accelerate at all when I hit the throttle, it would almost die. That was with the 230 main jet. However, with the 230 in the bigger carb it runs better than with the 260
 
Toss the large carb in the corner of the shed and run with the 26mm stock one.

I see no mention of leak test or compression tests, it would be a great idea to start a square one an proceed from there.

Low compression will hinder starting and cause the lack of power you are experiencing.

What is the jet needle set at?

Have you checked the fuel level in the float bowl or set the float level?

As you are able to start it, have you set the idle as per specs?