I went riding yesterday and it was running fine the only thing I did is turn the idle down a half turn because it was a little high. I took it out to the corn field and topped it out I was coming back threw the trails and it just turned off while accelerating. First thing I changed the plug and it wouldn't start I checked if it was getting spark and it was. I let it cool down and I tried it again and it still wouldn't start even while giving it gas. I brought it home in my friends truck and checked the compression it was at 130 so then I took the carb of and cleaned it out it wasn't dirty to begin with and I took the reeds out and inspected them and they looked fine. the only thing is I did have the spacer on before the reeds which I'm goin to change when I put it back together. so then I checked the flywheel out to see if I snaped the key but it was fine and still on there tight. I don't know what the problem could be it's getting spark and was getting fuel and has compression so I'm stumped any help would be great.
blaster dies mid ride won't start need help
- Thread starter 03redblaster
- Start date
By the way, great job on pre post checks you made on the Blaster. Wish more people would do that. Have some rep.
thanks, when I took the carb off the bowl was super full of gas so I'm gona order new intake gaskets and flip the reed spacer because I saw it makes less pressure the way I have it and I'm gona try to start it up again I'll post on here when I do thanks for the help
btw what do u think could of caused the carb to flood mid riding?
Could be a little dirt in the line knocked loose or the vibration of the ruts in the field. I've had that problem before. Had a Quad one time that didn't like the plow rows in the field. The constant vibrations would make the float not seal right. It was like ridding on the highway rumble strips. Not saying that's what would with yours but just throwing that out there.
Congratulations on trying to solve your problems before asking for help.
There is a possibility of flooding, the seat needle has a spring loaded plunger which is designed to stop excess fuel under vibration.
If the float level is incorrect, sometimes that little plunger cannot keep up to the barrage of bumps and will allow the float bowl to flood.
As to the reed spacer, it should cause no starting problems, its placement only affects where the power comes on the pipe.
There is a possibility of flooding, the seat needle has a spring loaded plunger which is designed to stop excess fuel under vibration.
If the float level is incorrect, sometimes that little plunger cannot keep up to the barrage of bumps and will allow the float bowl to flood.
As to the reed spacer, it should cause no starting problems, its placement only affects where the power comes on the pipe.
yeah I'm pretty sure the float got stuck nothing else really makes sence, I do have a aftermarket 30mm keihin carb. I ordered the gasket so I'm going to check the carb out again and give it another cleaning. again thanks for everyone's help
yeah I think it may have had an air leak because it was a little damp around the intake by one bolt but I do have a leek down tester and will be doing one once I get the gaskets and new bolts because 2 were striped, thanks
leak test it..... and then maybe try driving it somewhere smoother to see if its the bumpy field causing it.... i had a 4 wheeler that didnt like super rough stuff before.
so I got everything back together cleaned the carb again did a leak down test and it was good but it still doesn't run, do you think it could be a wiring problem, it sounds like it wants to start and the headlight still lights up. The kid I bought it from removed the tores because I have a 30mm carb and the ignition isn't connected.
Wanting to start could mean it has a gut full of fuel, backed up by a damp spot around a gasketed surface.
As the headlamp is on a different circuit than the ignition there is a possibility of an electrical problem.
The lights will work if the ignition is dead.
It may pay to check the grounds in the ignition wiring.
As the headlamp is on a different circuit than the ignition there is a possibility of an electrical problem.
The lights will work if the ignition is dead.
It may pay to check the grounds in the ignition wiring.
yeah I'm looking into the wireing now. Also if I hold the throttle wide open it sounds like it's almost there
Remove the spark plug, turn off the petcock, drain the carby, kick the heck out of it about 20 or 30 times with the throttle wide open.
Put everything back to starting mode with a new spark plug and attempt to start it again.
yeah I tried that two times still got nothing, I ordered a used wireing harness that came with coil and cdi for 50 bucks they say it's all working figured it's worth a shot.
had same problems with my cr480 and my old husky cr390 both where loaded up with fuel and what blaaster suggested worked for me
I figured out the the tor wire came unlooped witch was why it wasn't starting, now it starts but the carb keeps flooding out and fouling plugs, not sure maybe the needle is getting stuck because I tested the float level by blowing into it and it seems good
What a novel way to test a float level.
Try the correct way.
Float level should 20 to 21.5mm on a stock carby.
you want to turn the carb and hold it on a slight angle to measure the float height, like shown here......
it should just barely be touching the inner needle, not depressing it,
It is possible to check the fuel level by attaching a length of clear plastic tubing to the drain nipple , lifting it up the side of the carby, and cracking the drain screw.
The fuel should show in the pipe to the level of the carb body above the float bowl gasket.
What a novel way to test a float level.
Try the correct way.
Float level should 20 to 21.5mm on a stock carby.
you want to turn the carb and hold it on a slight angle to measure the float height, like shown here......
it should just barely be touching the inner needle, not depressing it,
It is possible to check the fuel level by attaching a length of clear plastic tubing to the drain nipple , lifting it up the side of the carby, and cracking the drain screw.
The fuel should show in the pipe to the level of the carb body above the float bowl gasket.
okay I'm going to do that but is the measurement different on a 28 keihin sudco pwk I don't have a stock carb
