okay so heres the thing, my piston skirt broke off and broke a small piece of my right side main case and it let crankcase oil in and burnt up my top end to. Is there anyway to fix this missing little chunk that broke off or do i need to buy a new case?
Blaster broken main case fixable?
- Thread starter mattsteibler26
- Start date
I dont have any the case is at my freinds house but before it blew it up was smoking white like crazy its just a small piece of metal missing about half and inch
Did someone call!?
Do you have a tig welder or know anyone with one? If so, I can step you through the process to clean, boil, clean, weld, and finish the repair area.
As Yamaha28 said, it's sort of a skill I've worked on getting right to be able to weld cast aluminum.
Did someone call!?
Do you have a tig welder or know anyone with one? If so, I can step you through the process to clean, boil, clean, weld, and finish the repair area.
As Yamaha28 said, it's sort of a skill I've worked on getting right to be able to weld cast aluminum.
I know somewhat X( how clean alum must be. Can you elaborate on the "boil" process?
Even at the risk of "giving away" to just any guest who might happen upon it the secrets I spent HOURS AND HOURS developing... I'll satisfy your curiosity as to the process.
The first step in any case repair is a good washdown with a strong detergent and clean water. I have a parts washer I run "purple power" in.
The next step is an acetone wash with a wire brush (standard steel at this point, the process isn't done yet so it doesn't have to be stainless steel)
After I have a relatively clean aluminum to work with, I burr out any cracks and prep the edges of the broken areas. Any sharp edges are going to undercut anyway so the area needs to be fairly smooth and cracked out places need somewhere for the filler to go and add too.
The next step is one of my "secrets".... Aluminum is actually a terribly poor material to make a liquid containing vessel (crank case) out of. It's VERY porous and only the fact that the "sponge" is so thick means that oil can't soak through it like a colander. While in operation the material is actually allowing oil to soak into the surface, welding will force that contamination back out at the most inopportune of times. I actually "preheat" with a vengeance using a focused propane torch flame. I run it along the surface of the aluminum (and in fact sometimes leave it there and walk away) to allow the aluminum pores "to open" and boil the oil contamination out of the metal. This helps remove *SOME* of the initial difficulties in getting the filler rod to take.
The last step before actual welding is another acetone wash down, this time with a stainless steel wire brush. Usually the metal is hot enough that the acetone boils completely out of the area to be welded but in the event there is any left, I relight the propane torch and use it to burn off the acetone that's left (and any residue that it carried with it!)
Once I have a super clean surface to work with, it makes getting the case material to weld EASIER (still not easy). I then use a aluminum/silicone alloy filler rod and low heat to "dope" the weld area to promote adhesion. Once the first "bead" is ran on the base cast aluminum, I switch up to 4043 filler rod and continue to add filler until the case is built up past the original level.
I then use carbide burrs to cut the surface back down to size and finally lap the cases (if the area was sealing area) for flatness.
The Polish, Hillbilly, Redneck 
in me invisioned a pot of water or simular on the stove to "boil" it 
in me invisioned a pot of water or simular on the stove to "boil" it The Polish, Hillbilly, Redneck
LOL no, I'm not out back at the still boiling away like granny from the beverly hillbillies. It's a bit more technical than that! LOL! I:I
